Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 568 total · 13/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on May 10, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

A long route with easy climbing to a crux in the middle and another in the roof below the anchors.

Step off the ledge, and do some 5.11 moves to reach better holds. A long section of 5.10 leads to a technical crux that involves some creative movement or a large wingspan to get past a large flake. More 5.10 climbing on flat ledges ends just below the double tiered roof. Crank out the first roof on some flat holds, then set up on a crisp, incut edge and a glue reinforced undercling and fire for a jug over the final roof. Ride good holds up and right to the chains.

Location

Right of Electric Chair.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. Bring a stick clip for the first bolt.

Photos

Ethan Smalley
Asheville, North Carolina
  5.12c
Ethan Smalley   Asheville, North Carolina
  5.12c
This route of fun, but contrived there's no reason to do the big move out left. Instead I found it much easier to move 3 feet to the right and do one deep lock off.

The sequence in the roof with the glued on ear is very fun. Apr 6, 2018