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Routes in Lilly Bluff

Alien S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Aneurism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backer Spit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blade Loafer T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Body Hammer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boogie Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Borderline S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Clyde the Mega Dude S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dinosaur Jr. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Deeds S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Done Dirt Cheep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drive By S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Egyptian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Electric Chair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Electric Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evil Weed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gangsta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hieroglyphics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ivy League S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Krieg's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Familia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lounge Lizard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mixed Nuts T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Motion Sickness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NC Sport Climber T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Neanderthal T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ode to the Quitter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Osiris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Osirus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paraphernalia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Piggy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rebel Flag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rocking Chair T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rolling Coal T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tarantella S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Insanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ticks Are For Kids S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unga Bunga T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wheatward Bound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whipper Snapper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakuza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: MIke Mckee
Page Views: 1,201 total, 13/month
Shared By: American Dankster on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Great route and should not be overlooked. Includes both great face climbing movement and pumpy finish. Take advantage of the rests.

Location

15ft right of Borderline

Protection

9 bolts, Anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
Hieronymus Posch: Are you sure you were on Alien? The book has Alien, Tarantella and the 12a next to it mislabeled. I haven't been on it yet. We tried to climb all the 10s at Lily Bluffs and this is where we ran out of daylight. Nov 29, 2016
Nick Brennan
Concord, NH
  5.11a
Nick Brennan   Concord, NH
  5.11a
Far more difficult than Losers Weepers and Pet Semetary, both of which are 11a. Less strenuous than Whippersnapper. Worth doing... Odds are you'll get to the top, go for it. Mar 17, 2016
Hieronymus Posch
Cobb, CA
 
Hieronymus Posch   Cobb, CA
 
Great climb. Very fun. Not sure its really a even a 5.10a although some of the beginning moves are a little stretched out. Maybe for 5.10-11 if you're under 6ft. Great fun though. Jan 2, 2014