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Rolling Coal

5.12b, Trad, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Taylor Roy and Leah Frazer, 7/25/15
Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > Lilly Bluff

Description

Established ground-up, this seam was very clean at the hardest sections down low but had a fine layer of dust/lichen/moss covers the upper part of the route. However, it has since been scrubbed and now offers a great traditional challenge.

Climb a loose/dirty slab to the base of the large roof. Place some perfect finger sized pieces then pull onto the roof and traverse left along a nice rail. Get a nest of good gear, work into a solid undercling flake, and crank past the roof using long reaches, toe hooks and a hidden hold out right. Place another nest of good gear in a thin horizontal crack and punch it for easier ground. Enjoy a splitter 5.10a finger/hand crack with lots of face holds to the top.

Although this route is protected by trad gear, it climbs like a sport route. The only place you jam a crack is the much easier top section.

Watch the rope when you lower, it tends to get stuck in the crack.

Location

Look for two cracks about 20 feet apart that split a roof 80 feet left of the first bolted route(a project) you encounter when approaching from the left. Rolling Coal climbs the left crack.

Protection

Gear from 00 C3 to a #4 Camalot with emphasis on finger sizes. Bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rolling Coal- 12b.
[Hide Photo] Rolling Coal- 12b.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Scrubbed the upper part. Still some lichen and moss but much cleaner now. Enjoy! Aug 28, 2015
Luke Cornejo
Knoxvill, TN
 
[Hide Comment] These routes have now been equipped with a bolted anchor. This also eliminates the issue with the rope getting stuck in the crack. Besides a little dirt and lichen this is actually a pretty fun route. Go get on it! Sep 1, 2021
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Thanks for adding permanent anchors. Did the park give you permission to add bolts? Glad to see people are climbing these routes. Sep 2, 2021
Luke Cornejo
Knoxvill, TN
 
[Hide Comment] Yes, as part of the rebolting efforts we have permission from the park to place bolt anchors on trad climbs. Thanks for putting this one up! Sep 3, 2021