Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Prince, Jay Harrison
Page Views: 580 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mike Prince on Jul 3, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route has the same start as "Stand Your Ground". Climb 8 feet to small ledge then traverse left. Climb on following the bolt line keeping bolts on your right. 3 Horizontals take gear well. After the 3rd horizontal, step right of the bolt line to the top.

Variation 1
Variation FA by Tom Lane.
Starts 4 feet right of wide crack in a right facing corner, 15 feet left of Stand Your Ground. Look for the only knee level toe hold on the blank face.
5.9 PG13
Key placement under lip of overhang.
Belay must be on the ball as second bolt clip could ground fall.

Location

Crane Mountain - South Corner Cliffs accessible via a herd path running up from the Height-of-Land Wall.

Protection

7 Bolts.
Bolted Anchors on top.
X4's #2 #3 #4
60 Meter Rope.

Photos

I clipped the first bolt from the SYG crack (i.e. the normal start) then climbed the 5.9 Variation off the ground. It's a bit reachy and one of our group had to jump to get to the horizontal 10-12' up. From there it's possible to traverse right to that first bolt, but the swing would be pretty serious if you fall before getting there. Of course we all tried a "directissima" start directly to the bolt - no success. Overall a really terrific route with some elegant face climbing.

Also - up on the top 1/4 of the wall, there's a black thin seam between this route and SYG. It's a good 5.10 exercise to do before you pull your rope. Jul 10, 2017