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Routes in Upper South Corner Cliffs

Action Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ambulance Chaser T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Animal Charm T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Animal Farm T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ape X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Steps T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Blueberry Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blueberry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chesty Puller T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack of Dawn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Lace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escalator to Heaven T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fireworks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goosesteps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jammer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug, Tug, & Jam T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lil Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Losing Streak T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Provando T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reproof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Riprovando T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMASH! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
STaT T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stand Your Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straighten Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stutter Steps T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Tourist Trap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Prince, Jay Harrison
Page Views: 546 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mike Prince on Jul 3, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This route has the same start as "Stand Your Ground". Climb 8 feet to small ledge then traverse left. Climb on following the bolt line keeping bolts on your right. 3 Horizontals take gear well. After the 3rd horizontal, step right of the bolt line to the top.

Variation 1
Variation FA by Tom Lane.
Starts 4 feet right of wide crack in a right facing corner, 15 feet left of Stand Your Ground. Look for the only knee level toe hold on the blank face.
5.9 PG13
Key placement under lip of overhang.
Belay must be on the ball as second bolt clip could ground fall.

Location

Crane Mountain - South Corner Cliffs accessible via a herd path running up from the Height-of-Land Wall.

Protection

7 Bolts.
Bolted Anchors on top.
X4's #2 #3 #4
60 Meter Rope.
I clipped the first bolt from the SYG crack (i.e. the normal start) then climbed the 5.9 Variation off the ground. It's a bit reachy and one of our group had to jump to get to the horizontal 10-12' up. From there it's possible to traverse right to that first bolt, but the swing would be pretty serious if you fall before getting there. Of course we all tried a "directissima" start directly to the bolt - no success. Overall a really terrific route with some elegant face climbing.

Also - up on the top 1/4 of the wall, there's a black thin seam between this route and SYG. It's a good 5.10 exercise to do before you pull your rope. Jul 10, 2017