Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: 2014 Tom Lane
Page Views: 125 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Dec 18, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Named for the contrast between the initial jugs and the ensuing crimpage.
Ape up the jugs to a stance on the wide horizontal crack barely left of a small, short right-facing flake. Crimpy moves up, left, up, then right reach easing, but still engaging, movement up the face to the bottom of a diminutive, left-rising, right-facing corner/ramp. Up this to its top, then step right and go up through an obscure, rounded corner/notch to the large sloping ledge.

Location

Begin on the level part of the ledge, behind a large, reasonably healthy spruce tree growing beside the cliff. Look for the initial line of buckets leading to a wide horizontal crack 3 meters up.
Descend by either finishing up on one of the neighboring routes, or hacking climber's right to the anchor above Ambulance Chaser.

Protection

A #4 C4 is nice to protect the initial moves; after that, medium-large wired nuts and small cams to 1" will do. There are several bolts (4) along the way.

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