Crack of Dawn
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 43.5378, -73.9677 |
| FA: | 2014 Jay Harrison & Tom Lane |
| Page Views: | 1,319 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Harrison on May 16, 2014 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
Excellent position on the upper pitches. Starting pitch runs up a nasty vertical crack; 5.7. Second pitch climbs a vertical crack in a low-angle face. The mantle getting started is a bit awkward. At the end of the crack, step left, make a tricky move to an overhang, grab its left edge and pull up onto the final slab. Third pitch is short, looks unlikely, but goes at 5.7. The second pitch tops out at the base of a left-rising ramp; scramble up/around a short wall to gain a higher left-rising ramp, then walk left to its end, just left of a thin vertical crack leading to an A-frame overhang (the route Ape-X ). Climb up a right-leaning vertical crack using face holds to the left, to a horizontal crack rising leftward. Reach above the crack to good holds, then foot-traverse left along the lower crack until reaching a thin right-leaning diagonal crack. Take it, moving right around an overhanging flake, to a stance under a ceiling. Last pitch ( same as for Ape-X )heads right through the only easy break in the roof guarding the top-out; it can, with careful rope management, be combined with the previous pitch.



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