Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: 2013
Page Views: 368 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Mar 10, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

The crux is the opening handcrack. Feet are pretty sketchy; you've got to make good use of what little there is, and crank the jams.
Jam up the crack to its end at a small overhang. Move left to the stance shared with Firecracker. climb the right-rising, flaring wide crack in the slab to a horizontal break. Work up a shallow vertical crack to another horizontal, then (V1) step left 5' to a right-rising vertical crack. Take it to the ledge.
V1 Jammer Direct 5.9+: Step up and right onto the ramp below the bolt of Blueberry Jam and finish as for that route.

Location

This route begins at the 15' tall, vertical tight-hands crack just right of the "scramble-up". It is 15' left of the cleft marking the start of the Gray-Harrison "alpine" route.

Protection

Nuts, and cams to 4"
While this route goes up a very wide crack at one point, small cams can be used deep in it.

Photos

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Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
 
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
 
SPOILER BETA - Lay it back. Backs off the grade to maybe 5.8+ Jun 15, 2015
The direct finish option makes this a more substantial route. I went that way b/c I thought the crack on my left was part of Firecracker, so I stayed away from it. Oct 3, 2017