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Routes in Upper South Corner Cliffs

Action Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ambulance Chaser T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Animal Charm T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Animal Farm T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ape X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Steps T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Blueberry Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blueberry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chesty Puller T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack of Dawn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Lace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escalator to Heaven T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fireworks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goosesteps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jammer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug, Tug, & Jam T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lil Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Losing Streak T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Provando T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reproof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Riprovando T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMASH! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
STaT T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stand Your Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straighten Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stutter Steps T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Tourist Trap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: 2013
Page Views: 336 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Mar 10, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is the opening handcrack. Feet are pretty sketchy; you've got to make good use of what little there is, and crank the jams.
Jam up the crack to its end at a small overhang. Move left to the stance shared with Firecracker. climb the right-rising, flaring wide crack in the slab to a horizontal break. Work up a shallow vertical crack to another horizontal, then (V1) step left 5' to a right-rising vertical crack. Take it to the ledge.
V1 Jammer Direct 5.9+: Step up and right onto the ramp below the bolt of Blueberry Jam and finish as for that route.

Location

This route begins at the 15' tall, vertical tight-hands crack just right of the "scramble-up". It is 15' left of the cleft marking the start of the Gray-Harrison "alpine" route.

Protection

Nuts, and cams to 4"
While this route goes up a very wide crack at one point, small cams can be used deep in it.

Photos

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The direct finish option makes this a more substantial route. I went that way b/c I thought the crack on my left was part of Firecracker, so I stayed away from it. Oct 3, 2017
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
SPOILER BETA - Lay it back. Backs off the grade to maybe 5.8+ Jun 15, 2015