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Routes in Upper South Corner Cliffs

Action Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ambulance Chaser T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Animal Charm T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Animal Farm T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ape X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Steps T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Blueberry Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blueberry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chesty Puller T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack of Dawn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Lace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escalator to Heaven T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fireworks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goosesteps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jammer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug, Tug, & Jam T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lil Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Losing Streak T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Provando T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reproof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Riprovando T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMASH! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
STaT T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stand Your Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straighten Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stutter Steps T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Tourist Trap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: 2013
Page Views: 174 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 16, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

I've been told the rating is sandbagged, that this is much harder than 5.9. Seemed on the easy side of that grade the day we sent it - which involved creating a makeshift "rack", since neither of us brought one. A couple bolt hangers, some resident stones, and a knotted cord or two sufficed.
Directions are simple: climb the crack. The top-out is the mental, and perhaps physical, crux.

Location

On the Jammer Ledge, right end, just past the low roof; at a vertical crack which tapers from hands down low, to fingers higher up.

Protection

LOL - those bolt hangers worked well. I'd suggest a more typical trad rack, however.

Photos

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Alex Mitchell
Cincinnati, OH
Alex Mitchell   Cincinnati, OH
Maybe I don't have your balancing skills Jay but I found this route to be very sustained and harder than the 5.9s to the left.

Even so I still liked the route a lot and is a much better pitch than the looks of the one to the right. May 16, 2014