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Routes in Upper South Corner Cliffs

Action Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ambulance Chaser T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Animal Charm T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Animal Farm T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ape X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Steps T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Blueberry Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blueberry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chesty Puller T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack of Dawn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Lace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escalator to Heaven T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fireworks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goosesteps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jammer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug, Tug, & Jam T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lil Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Losing Streak T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Provando T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reproof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Riprovando T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMASH! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
STaT T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stand Your Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straighten Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stutter Steps T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Tourist Trap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: 29th October 2014
Page Views: 64 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 30, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Rigorously challenging until you get through the bulge. After establishing yourself on the blockpile ledge beneath the overhang, climb over it (5.10a), make a couple easier steps on steep rock, quickly running into more challenging terrain to reach a pod below the bulge. The crack narrows and flares a tad above this, the footholds get tiny. Exhilarating moves get around the bulge to a welcome no-hands stance - there's a perfect #5 Hex placement here if you like. The rest of the line is easy but pleasant climbing along the crack to an anchor on a tree to the left, near the top of the face.
NOTE that the pro, while bomber, is not trivial. This is not a plug'n'play crack; its lower parts open up inside and often have fragile fringes. There, your gear must be placed carefully, deeper than the edges but not so deep it slides down and out. At the bulge, the crack is "flarey", but you can install good .5 cams and run it out, or fiddle with big stoppers higher. Once you've reached the high pod, it is difficult getting a good nut in place without moving your hand. In short, this is a great route for challenging both your climbing and trad placement skills.

Location

This is the obvious and striking, right-rising crack which breaks through a low roof and runs through a bulge 45' up. Getting stood up on the blocks beneath the overhang is awkward.

Protection

Cams to 1 1/2", full set of stoppers or offset nuts. Double .5 C4. Tri-cams may come in handy.

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