Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: 29th October 2014
Page Views: 135 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 30, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Rigorously challenging until you get through the bulge. After establishing yourself on the blockpile ledge beneath the overhang, climb over it (5.10a), make a couple easier steps on steep rock, quickly running into more challenging terrain to reach a pod below the bulge. The crack narrows and flares a tad above this, the footholds get tiny. Exhilarating moves get around the bulge to a welcome no-hands stance - there's a perfect #5 Hex placement here if you like. The rest of the line is easy but pleasant climbing along the crack to an anchor on a tree to the left, near the top of the face.
NOTE that the pro, while bomber, is not trivial. This is not a plug'n'play crack; its lower parts open up inside and often have fragile fringes. There, your gear must be placed carefully, deeper than the edges but not so deep it slides down and out. At the bulge, the crack is "flarey", but you can install good .5 cams and run it out, or fiddle with big stoppers higher. Once you've reached the high pod, it is difficult getting a good nut in place without moving your hand. In short, this is a great route for challenging both your climbing and trad placement skills.

Location

This is the obvious and striking, right-rising crack which breaks through a low roof and runs through a bulge 45' up. Getting stood up on the blocks beneath the overhang is awkward.

Protection

Cams to 1 1/2", full set of stoppers or offset nuts. Double .5 C4. Tri-cams may come in handy.

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