Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: 27 July 2013
Page Views: 1,063 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 19, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Climb the crack to a stance at 8' (you can begin here), then go up a left-facing flake/corner rising right, which soon swings to vertical. It peters out at 70'; climb the face past two bolts to a final few easy moves to reach an anchor straight up. Note that there is a lower anchor to climber's left; this is for Action Steps.
A 60m rope will just suffice to rappel/TR from this anchor.

Location

The Jammer Wall has a steep, right-rising ramp near its left end; this is the crack/flake running up the wall left of the base of this ramp.

Protection

Standard rack. Tricams and medium-large stoppers for the final crack pieces. Two bolts past that. Save your #2 C4 (or bring along an extra) for above the bolts.
There is a 2-bolt anchor at 30m. There is another anchor slightly lower and 15' to climber's left, this is for Action Steps.

Photos

J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
 
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
 
Great route. Slab/crack/vertical face. The crux, IMO, is more mental than physical. You leave the confines of the less than vertical crack to get to what seems like a fairly vertical face with thin face moves. But once you do them, you realize it wasn't quite as bleak as it looked. Also, the anchors are straight up from the crux bolts, not to the left (Action Steps) like I ended up doing. Definitely a softer 5.7 for me, but I thought it was a fun climb and very worthwhile. Bring tricams...you can use them on this route. The crack seems to take them better than cams. Jan 22, 2015
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
 
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
 
I also thought the crux was the face after the crack runs out, but it's not as bad as it seems and the bolting is perfect. IMO this is one of the better overall climbs from this ledge system (Jammer area). It's relatively sustained (mostly 5.5-5.6) and interesting, unlike some of the other moderate climbs that have hard starts, soft middles, and hard finishes. Jun 15, 2015
The description says this is a 80 ft pitch, also that one can rap with a 60m rope. Why then does it also say there's 2 bolt anchor at 60m?? Dec 8, 2015
Tparis
Pottersville,New York
  5.7
Tparis   Pottersville,New York
  5.7
I think that is a typo mike. The anchor is at 30m. There is a ramp/gully running up right if your rope doesn't quite reach the ground you can lower off into that and down climb the rest of the way class 4. Dec 9, 2015
Jay Harrison
  5.7
Jay Harrison  
  5.7
Typos corrected.
Be aware that the a 60m rope *usually* manages this lower/rappel, but old ropes tend to shrink - quite a lot - and may not make it to the base. You can swing over into the gully to climber's right if needed. Dec 11, 2015