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Routes in Upper South Corner Cliffs

Action Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ambulance Chaser T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Animal Charm T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Animal Farm T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ape X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Steps T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Blueberry Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blueberry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chesty Puller T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack of Dawn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Lace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escalator to Heaven T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fireworks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goosesteps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jammer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug, Tug, & Jam T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lil Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Losing Streak T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Provando T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reproof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Riprovando T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMASH! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
STaT T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stand Your Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straighten Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stutter Steps T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Tourist Trap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: May 19, 2014
Page Views: 59 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 21, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Some years back, Todd Paris and I dragged his new rope up for an exploratory, "alpine" ascent along the then-remote South Corner Cliffs. Our line ran out of pro after a beautiful crack below a steep face, degenerating into a wandering mess. With some fixed gear in place, this is the "direct" version that we wanted to do.
Climb the short face onto the lower ramp, then step right onto a block and make an awkward mantle onto the next ramp (if you are tall enough, you can reach that ramp directly). Walk down 12' to the gorgeous vertical handcrack and climb it to its end at a small stance. Climb the knobs and plates above (passing 3 bolts) to easier ground and finish up at a fixed anchor. Alternatively, clamber up the brushy ledge to the next wall and climb something there.
It is possible - and much easier - to access the vertical crack by climbing directly up along the upper, narrow ramp. We chose to ascend as per the original Paris-Harrison alpine route, which is more interesting.
It is also more challenging (5.9, and the original means of ascent) to climb up the plates directly; but one can use holds to the left to gain a meter or two and thus avoid the initial lift-off crimps.

Location

About 125' uphill and left of Bodhi Tree, and about 100' right of, and below, the Jammer Wall. Look for two right-rising ramps, one above the other, and begin about 50' right of their lower ends, below a short, right-leaning vertical crack.
Descend by rappel off the fixed anchor.

Protection

Standard Adk Trad rack plus 3 QDs for bolts, and possibly a #4 C4 if you opt for the original start.
2-bolt anchor at the top as well.

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