Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
FA: 2013
Page Views: 556 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jun 10, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Jim Lawyer, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Climb the vertical crack (great finger locks and jams) to the overhang. Clever body language gets you up the left-rising crack to the apex of the overhang and a welcome hand jam. Still a tad tricky getting through the obstacle, but a solid cam overhead relieves some anxiety.
Follow the crack up and left to a gear belay under the roof to finish P1.
For P2, walk right to a block providing access above the roof. Climb the hand crack to a horizontal, step right and follow a thin crack to a brushy notch to reach the top.
The direct finish, through the left-rising crack breaking the roof, has yet to be led. I've seen one person TR it successfully; he states it is somewhat deeply into 5.11 territory.

Location Suggest change

This is the eponymous route for the Ape X wall, which lies to the right of the Animal Charm Wall (which lies directly above the Jammer Wall), separated by a double left-rising ramp system. Ape X follows the obvious vertical crack leading to an A-frame overhang at 30'.
Note that this route lies just right of Crack of Dawn's 3rd pitch. The glaringly obvious right-rising crack of The Slash lies down and to the right of the start of Ape X

Protection Suggest change

Standard Adk Trad rack.
Walk climber's left 100' to reach a fixed rappel anchor above Animal Charm.


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