Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 2013
Page Views: 73 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jun 10, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the vertical crack (great finger locks and jams) to the overhang. Clever body language gets you up the left-rising crack to the apex of the overhang and a welcome hand jam. Still a tad tricky getting through the obstacle, but a solid cam overhead relieves some anxiety.
Follow the crack up and left to a gear belay under the roof to finish P1.
For P2, walk right to a block providing access above the roof. Climb the hand crack to a horizontal, step right and follow a thin crack to a brushy notch to reach the top.
The direct finish, through the left-rising crack breaking the roof, has yet to be led. I've seen one person TR it successfully; he states it is somewhat deeply into 5.11 territory.

Location

This is the eponymous route for the Ape X wall, which lies to the right of the Animal Charm Wall (which lies directly above the Jammer Wall), separated by a double left-rising ramp system. Ape X follows the obvious vertical crack leading to an A-frame overhang at 30'.
Note that this route lies just right of Crack of Dawn's 3rd pitch. The glaringly obvious right-rising crack of The Slash lies down and to the right of the start of Ape X

Protection

Standard Adk Trad rack.
Walk climber's left 100' to reach a fixed rappel anchor above Animal Charm.

Photos

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Jim Lawyer    
 
The Upper South Corner Cliffs is a collection of walls separated by ledges. As Crane gets developed, these subwalls are becoming easier to access; the main point of access to these walls is the path that leads to the base of the Jammer Wall.

Ape X is located on the Animal Charm Wall, which is positioned above the Jammer Wall.

The Animal Charm Wall is split by a steep, left-rising ramp; the routes Blueberry Pie and Animal Charm are on the left side of the wall (directly above Jammer), whereas Ape X, The Slash, and Chesty Puller are on the right side and begin on the left-rising ramp (this subsection of the Animal Charm Wall is sometimes called the "Ape X Wall").

To reach Blueberry Pie and Animal Charm, you can climb a route on the Jammer Wall (such as Firecracker or Jammer). To reach the routes on the right side (e.g., Ape X, The Slash, Chesty Puller, etc.), go to the Jammer Wall, then walk as far right on the ledge as possible and climb the very short first pitch of Crack of Dawn (5.6). From the tree terrace at the top, walk right (and slightly downhill), then follow a steep, left-rising ramp up and left. Ape X begins at the far left end of this ramp-ledge. Aug 30, 2015