Type: Trad, 145 ft (44 m), 2 pitches
FA: 2014
Page Views: 351 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Dec 18, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route

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We attempted to sneak an easy, "first-look" line across the steep face where pitch one lies. Our first try ended in ignominy; our second try succeeded, but confirmed a solid "R" pro rating. A couple bolts reduce this to "PG".
P1: From the point where the ramp drops down, reach directly out right (1 3/4" cam protects this initial move) to a flake, pull over to it, then up to a horizontal crack. Move right along this to a patch of knobs allowing ascent to another horizontal crack. Follow the crack right, until it fades, then make a committing move up and right to reach the good edge of a diminutive, right-facing corner/ramp rising leftward. Follow the ramp to its top, make another move to reach up and right to a thin horizontal crack, then follow that crack right to its end. Sketchy moves right and slightly down gain a foot rail, which in turn obtains a stance below a vertical set of 3 knobs just left of a shallow groove. Up the knobs and groove, onto a large, sloping ledge.
P2: At the back of the ledge is a notch formed by a right-facing corner on the left, and a hanging boulder on the right. Climb up this notch and go left along a brushy ledge, following a crack in the main wall that leads left and up. You will cross two other cracks which rise rightward; you can take either of these as an optional finish, or continue as originally done, moving up and left on the face to reach a large flake on a final ledge just below the top. Climb up the right-facing corner formed by this flake and the main wall to reach the top.


The ledge at the base of this section of wall has a steep ramp, leading up to a small thicket of trees, mostly evergreens. This route begins at the top of this ramp, near the right edge of the tree thicket.


Cams to 3", couple full length runners. There are now two bolts en route. While there is no fixed anchor directly above, one can squeeze through branches to climber's right to access the anchor above Ambulance Chaser, at the top of the first pitch. At the top of the second pitch, walk climber's left, dropping down to a tree ledge with a fixed anchor, which is directly above Animal Charm. Descent without rappelling is neither easy nor recommended.


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