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Routes in Upper South Corner Cliffs

Action Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ambulance Chaser T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Animal Charm T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Animal Farm T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ape X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Steps T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Blueberry Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blueberry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chesty Puller T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack of Dawn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Lace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escalator to Heaven T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fireworks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goosesteps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jammer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug, Tug, & Jam T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lil Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Losing Streak T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Provando T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reproof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Riprovando T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMASH! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
STaT T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slash, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stand Your Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straighten Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stutter Steps T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Tourist Trap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: 2013
Page Views: 246 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 14, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Begin with gymnastic moves onto a bulge under the main overhang, then jam and pull your way over that obstacle. Head up the easy slab via a right-rising crack, to a ledge under a steep face. Climb the face utilizing a maze of horizontals and shallow vertical cracks, to a sloping top-out.
Somewhat marred by the intermediate slab, and a bit wedged-in to its start (one could more easily climb through the notch to the left), this is nevertheless an interesting route.
Be careful about gear on the upper headwall. Don't pass up opportunities, or you may find yourself in trouble higher up. This is not a good beginning leader route.

Location

Start: 5' right of the blocky notch, on the left edge of a large, low overhang.
Descend by rappel.

Protection

Cams from 1/2 to 3"; small Tricams

Photos

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J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
 
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
 
Reminds me of Afternoon Delight at the Beer Walls, but harder (and less hard, because of fewer options). Also reminds me of a Gunks climb (but with friction) with the overhang and the horizontals. On top rope it felt a little easier than 5.8 but can't give a grade till I lead it. Top was a little dirty. Might play into the grade for now. These climbs at South Corner are cleaning up really fast, and this is becoming a heck of a little climbing area with a dozen great routes in a row. Reminds me of climbing at the Gunks some weekends when there are 30+ people there, so if solitude is your thing, perhaps look elsewhere. Jan 22, 2015