Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 158 total · 3/month
Shared By: greg k on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

good lay-backing up dihedral for about 20 ft. before transitioning over to broken, scary-looking chimney (that actually feels surprisingly solid).

Location

starts in the dihedral left of fucking fall and just right of bolted face climb, composure. continually trend right and use anchors atop fucking fall

Protection

Thin gear
Titanium anchor (2016)

Photos

Protection is tricky for beginners , the laid back at the bottom is super fun. Aug 10, 2014
pokryfka  
 
There is new (2016) Titanium anchor.

The first few moves, which is the crux, is not protected at all - have a good spotter; the rest can be easily protected.

Nuts are useful but there are also many good placements for mid size cams (to 1''), a 2'' can be used to protect the final move.

If feeling adventurous, one can continue climbing to the ledge above the anchor; there's some loose rocks and grass but it can be well protected, I'd grade it 5.8. There's the Wedding Route anchor on the ledge but one'd rather extend it and place a few directionals as it is a few meters to the right. Apr 17, 2017
BrianWS  
Climbed with Milk and his wife. After seeing me on Harp, he thought I knew what I was doing on gear and put me on this route. Nope! I think I made him sweat a bit when I was essentially soloing with a harness full of his nuts and cams. Apr 21, 2017