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Routes in (4) Music Hall

Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Nose Valentino T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Crack S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fucking Fall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wedding Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 127 total · 3/month
Shared By: greg k on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

good lay-backing up dihedral for about 20 ft. before transitioning over to broken, scary-looking chimney (that actually feels surprisingly solid).

Location

starts in the dihedral left of fucking fall and just right of bolted face climb, composure. continually trend right and use anchors atop fucking fall

Protection

Thin gear
Titanium anchor (2016)

Photos

BrianWS  
Climbed with Milk and his wife. After seeing me on Harp, he thought I knew what I was doing on gear and put me on this route. Nope! I think I made him sweat a bit when I was essentially soloing with a harness full of his nuts and cams. Apr 21, 2017
pokryfka  
 
There is new (2016) Titanium anchor.

The first few moves, which is the crux, is not protected at all - have a good spotter; the rest can be easily protected.

Nuts are useful but there are also many good placements for mid size cams (to 1''), a 2'' can be used to protect the final move.

If feeling adventurous, one can continue climbing to the ledge above the anchor; there's some loose rocks and grass but it can be well protected, I'd grade it 5.8. There's the Wedding Route anchor on the ledge but one'd rather extend it and place a few directionals as it is a few meters to the right. Apr 17, 2017
Protection is tricky for beginners , the laid back at the bottom is super fun. Aug 10, 2014