Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,366 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

The five meter crack on the northeast-facing wall of Music Hall reveals the start of Wedding Route. Getting off the ground and into where it becomes a shallow right-facing dihedral is the crux. Follow the crack, with intermittent horizontal cracks, until it disappears, then continue up through blocky bands and beautiful quartz patches towards the large, obvious ledge. This route will have endless traffic on any kind of decent weekend, so either get here early or prepare to stand in line.

This route has been bolted and rebolted previously, but both generations of bolts have been removed, and the route is now regarded as a trad climb.

From the anchors at the big ledge, you can continue to the top via a 5.4 ramp (I call it The Honeymoon Extension) or up the juggy overhanging face via Small Triangle more aptly translated as "The Mistress".

Location

Approach as for Music Hall. After you dip down towards the sea, passing under the Whale's Head, and rise back up, you will see the large alcove of Recital Hall about seven meters above the large platform. Wedding Route starts just to the left of this. Or, the route farthest to the right on Music Hall wall. Faces northeast.

Protection

Titanium anchor (2016)
Gear to 3"

Photos

Elvis Leg
Taipei, TW
 
Elvis Leg   Taipei, TW
 
A route that is so enjoyable that placing gear interupts the experience and the flow. Beautiful in every aspect. Single rack, takes both nuts and cams, two bolt anchor from a bomber belay ledge. Jul 31, 2018
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8
The beginning, which is the crux, is a hand crack with face-hold options that protects easily. The rest of the route is mostly horizontals and occasional nut placements through easier terrain. There are definitely 10-15' runouts though, so be ready for that.

No idea why this hasn't been rebolted. As the most popular moderate sport climb at the crag, it seems to me a real disservice to the community to debolt this route. Sep 17, 2018