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Routes in (4) Music Hall

Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Nose Valentino T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Crack S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fucking Fall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wedding Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 183 total, 4/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Apr 24, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

This is a classic thin test-piece high above the surf. Originally done on gear, then retroblted in the 90's; it has been restored to its former glory.

Approach the route via Moby Dick or any other combination of cracks below the Whale's Head. Instead of mounting the head itself, belay from the obvious grassy platform.

Move up some blocky stone to an awkward sidestep onto a small ledge below a black streak. It's more overhanging than it looks. Move quickly to avoid a pump, getting your fingers in the crack where you can and using crucial crimps on the face. Shake out when you reach the bomber horizontals, then fire into the stellar diagonal hand crack. The angle kicks back a little more, but the jams are bomber. Big ol' jugs await you at the chute up to the topout ledge.

Location

Whale's Head. The black streak.

Protection

Gear to 1.5" and micro-nuts!
Titanium anchor (2016)

Photos

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