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Routes in (4) Music Hall

Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Nose Valentino T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Crack S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fucking Fall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wedding Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 135 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Jun 5, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

A more challenging extension of Wedding Route that takes you to the top of the cliff. There is a big triangular roof to the right of the anchors, hence the name (小三 means "mistress" in colloquial Mandarin). Step out onto the face below the roof and into the short layback crack. This is a very exposed, exciting move for the grade, and protection can be a little tenuous, but it's definitely there. Pull through this to the horizontal below the roof. Traverse right and mantel onto the ledge. Continue up an easy, possibly loose dihedral to the cliff top. The anchor is a rope run through tubular webbing that is slung around two boulders on top of each other with two titanium rap rings. It will be solid for many years to come.

Location

Above Wedding Route

Protection

Gear to 1.5"
Sling anchor (2014)

Photos

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