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Routes in (4) Music Hall

Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Nose Valentino T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Crack S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fucking Fall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wedding Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 968 total, 12/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 20, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start up the minor alcove, trending towards a large obvious ledge up about 20 feet and to the right. Make sure to sling early protection as this route meanders a lot. Climbing doesn't get serious for a good 30 feet, but a slight overhang sneaks up on you before the first anchor. From a minor stance, move straight up through horizontals. Or follow a sweet flake up and right to another ledge. If doing this, sling obvious gear on the leftward traverse and step up onto the big ledge at the same anchor. Belay here for the Easy Dick cop out. Otherwise...

Scope the thin face below the big overhang. Good TCU and nut placements abound. Once you feel secure, get your feet up onto good ledges/pockets, jam the crack and pull off a positive sloper until you can reach jugs just below the lip of the overhang. Contort yourself underneath this overhang and use good sidepulls and smearing feet to traverse right. Mantel atop the Whale's Head - a belly flop will do. Can be continued to the top via Call Me Ishmael.

Be sure you rappel with a 60m rope. Also knot your ends and make sure your rope makes it down.

Location

Approach for Long Lane. Once over the monobridge, continue towards Music Hall, but before rising up to the next flat platform of rock, locate a flat boulder at the lowest point. Belay from here.

Protection

Gear to 3"
Titanium anchors (2016)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
Nope. Matt's topless photos of him trad climbing Sword seem to have saved them from the drill. Nov 24, 2013
BrianWS  
There are a number of (rusty) bolted routes that continue from the belay ledge in the hard 5.11 to 5.12 range listed in the first guidebook. Have these been resurrected by the Hilti patrol yet? Nov 22, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
In the original "101 Trad Climbs" book, it's graded a 5.8. In the new book it's graded a .10a. The thin moves up to the roof and the smear across definitely seem harder than anything on Long Arete, but not as hard as Surprise Crack. Comparable to Commissary. I'd probably give it a personal grade of 5.9, and note that the grading of the new book is inflated on classic moderates. May 16, 2012