Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,133 total · 12/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 20, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Start up the minor alcove, trending towards a large obvious ledge up about 20 feet and to the right. Make sure to sling early protection as this route meanders a lot. Climbing doesn't get serious for a good 30 feet, but a slight overhang sneaks up on you before the first anchor. From a minor stance, move straight up through horizontals. Or follow a sweet flake up and right to another ledge. If doing this, sling obvious gear on the leftward traverse and step up onto the big ledge at the same anchor. Belay here for the Easy Dick cop out. Otherwise...

Scope the thin face below the big overhang. Good TCU and nut placements abound. Once you feel secure, get your feet up onto good ledges/pockets, jam the crack and pull off a positive sloper until you can reach jugs just below the lip of the overhang. Contort yourself underneath this overhang and use good sidepulls and smearing feet to traverse right. Mantel atop the Whale's Head - a belly flop will do. Can be continued to the top via Call Me Ishmael.

Be sure you rappel with a 60m rope. Also knot your ends and make sure your rope makes it down.

Location

Approach for Long Lane. Once over the monobridge, continue towards Music Hall, but before rising up to the next flat platform of rock, locate a flat boulder at the lowest point. Belay from here.

Protection

Gear to 3"
Titanium anchors (2016)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
In the original "101 Trad Climbs" book, it's graded a 5.8. In the new book it's graded a .10a. The thin moves up to the roof and the smear across definitely seem harder than anything on Long Arete, but not as hard as Surprise Crack. Comparable to Commissary. I'd probably give it a personal grade of 5.9, and note that the grading of the new book is inflated on classic moderates. May 16, 2012
BrianWS  
There are a number of (rusty) bolted routes that continue from the belay ledge in the hard 5.11 to 5.12 range listed in the first guidebook. Have these been resurrected by the Hilti patrol yet? Nov 22, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
Nope. Matt's topless photos of him trad climbing Sword seem to have saved them from the drill. Nov 24, 2013