Music Hall Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||BrianWS on Apr 22, 2010|
The Whale's Head is the first area you come to, just after you step down from the Bulletin Board outside of Long Lane. At the lowest point, hop over onto a boulder and belay from atop for routes like Moby Dick. This wall's only bolts are anchors, which allow you to combine the moderate classics with stout testpieces like Sword or topout to a beautiful view via Call Me Ishmael.
The next area, separated by a chunky, vegetated weakness, is the Sky Wall. Goes into the shade early. The easy lower half can be climbed many different ways on trad or bolts (2013) to approach the four short sport routes above. These were rebolted in 2013 and are decent but short.
To the left of this is the obvious cave of Recital Hall. This area is in the shade pretty much all day, all year. There are a couple moderate trad climbs in here, as well as one mega-challenge sport climb rebolted in 2013.
The main face of Music Hall begins at the tall white slab and curves around the corner. The crack up the middle is the start of Wedding Route, which can be continued all the way to the top. At the corner is the challenging Musical Arete, which leads into the three stuper-classics of this area. There are also lots of bouldering options around the bottom of these faces. The next face down is bordered by obvious trad lines, with two bolt lines going up the middle. The rock above here is chossy; no routes continue from these blocky ledges. However, there are several more decent trad and newly-bolted sport lines as you continue on.
Past these bolted lines you will find the multitudinous fractures and fissures of the Broken Faces. Although it looks bad, the lines are mostly clean and present some of the best real jamming at Long Dong. Steal Your Face is an absolute must-do for any trad climber in the area. To the the left, easier trad climbs without anchor bolts create opportunities for bouldery top-ropes.
Beyond is the boulder field run-off from the Grand Auditorium above. Cross this over to the caves or Golden Valley about 20 minutes further.
Once you come out of the traverse, continue past the monobridge (building materials change seasonally) and make one more easy traverse. You should see a large face (Wedding Route) with a cave about 3 meters up. This area and the adjacent wall facing the Pacific is Music Hall.
Rain & Shade
The Whale's Head comes into the shade around 12pm. The Balcony is in the shade all day. Wedding Route face comes into the shade around 12pm. All other routes are in the sun until early in the afternoon.
Classic Climbing Routes at Music Hall
Days w Precip