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Routes in (4) Music Hall

Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Nose Valentino T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Broad Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Crack S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fucking Fall S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wedding Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 673 total · 7/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Apr 22, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description [Edit]

Bouldery start by pinching or crimping small holds and pebbles and stepping high. Gain the bolted finger crack and ride it to the ledge. You can easily cheat right at the crux. From the ledge, crank on a cool sloping ramp past a few more bolts.

Location [Edit]

The rightmost line of bolts in the pacific-facing section of Music Hall. Look for the crack, you can't miss it!
Anywhere else, the bolting and rebolting would have caused a shitstorm for sure. Leave your rack at home and savor the guiltiest of pleasures.

Protection [Edit]

Titanium (2016/17)

Photos

Anmin Deng
Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Anmin Deng   Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
The route is named "汋Õ" ("shu4-qin2"), meaning "harp", also a musical instrument. Jan 14, 2011
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11
Small fingers make the crux far easier. In fact, for me, I would say it's a one-move-wonder that doesn't really compare to the consistent movement and difficulty of its neighbors, Fucking Fall and Big Drum. But if you're looking for a first "11c" tick, jump on it. Nov 20, 2013
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
I liked this route. The character of the climbing changes completely after the ledge. But true, it isn't nearly as continuous as the neighboring routes (which aren't all that continuous in the first place, given the monster horizontal halfway up)

It's not very difficult if you know how to jam and lock -- I sure as hell didn't when I climbed this route and it felt tough. I'd love to get the chance to climb it again and see how it measures up. Nov 22, 2013
Danger
Taipei City
  5.11+
Danger   Taipei City
  5.11+
11c is probably a good compromise grade as the crux is definitely more difficult if you cant get your fingers in that sweet crack and much easier if you can.

If you've got sausage fingers and are frustrated by the thin crux , you can bypass it by using holds on the right of the bulge -- just don't claim you climbed the "fingercrack"! Feb 2, 2014

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