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Routes in (4) Music Hall

Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Nose Valentino T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Crack S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fucking Fall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wedding Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ta-Chi Wang
Page Views: 62 total, 1/month
Shared By: greg k on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

the interesting climbing starts almost half way up on vertical crack and face holds, depositing one on whale size ledge under the leviathan itself. didn't notice any anchors there and instead continued up to newer glue-ins on left side of moby's head

Location

starts right of moby dick slot on left angling ramp and climbs straight to the whale's chin.

Protection

standard rack
316 steel (2011)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
For me, the only 5.10 move felt like the one getting off the mid-way ledge. This is protected by very thin gear that is hard to place. I ended up just "cheating" left to place it, then down-climbing to do the move. From there, the route wanders right along horizontals with cool pocket jugs. Once you snag the left-trending weakness, it's an easy ramble to the alcove below the head. Build a gear belay or continue left. This route is extremely difficult to clean on lower or rappel - recommended that someone follow it.

A fun extension would be to continue around the right side of the roof to the top of the Whale's Head. Jul 10, 2016