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Routes in (4) Music Hall

Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Nose Valentino T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Crack S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fucking Fall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wedding Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Laurence Huen or Steven Wang (Unsure!)
Page Views: 1,395 total, 15/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Apr 22, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

In the main area of Music Hall (facing the sea), the leftmost line of bolts. Start with a finger crack leading to round holds, passing a few large horizontal cracks. The crux (between 5th and 6th bolts) requires a bit of balance, and leads to a nice ledge with the anchors.
Originally rated 5.11b, but way easier (more like 5.10d, possibly even c). A fun route with great rests, and great for climbers working on harder 10's, The name comes from an alleged near-groundfall during the all-gear first ascent.

Protection

Titanium (2016/17)

Photos

Use cam and the last bolt to the top , build anchor there to avoid rope drag. Nov 13, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
Okay so the route is published in the most recent book as "Fucking Fall." This is the name that everybody uses, including a majority of Taiwanese. Apparently Milk claims the FFA, and would prefer it to be called "79 Finals" - not "97 Finals" which makes no sense as it would have to refer to the Christian calendar, which is not what Anmin mentioned above.

For the sake of clarity, can we just list the route here as "Fucking Fall"? Oct 19, 2014
Danger
Taipei City
  5.10d
Danger   Taipei City
  5.10d
Great climbing with good rests at 1/3 and 2/3rd through

Key beta: skip the always-chalked diagonal sloper Feb 2, 2014
Anmin Deng
Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Anmin Deng   Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
I personally talked to the respectable senior climber who claimed FA'ed on this route. He calls this route "79 Finals" and hates others call it 'F--- fall'. This route was established in 1990 or ROC year of 79th for the finals of 1990 Taiwan national rock climbing championship. The 'F--- fall' is referred to the climbers who nearly-ground fell when established the route, but, as far as he knows, they actually did not successfully free climbed the route at that time. Mar 22, 2012
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
This route is a real balance test, with many chalked ruse-holds. At 5'8" some of the juggy rest holds are just out of my reach, creating a pre- and post-crux. You will find yourself wandering across the bolt line a couple of times. This route is definitely closer to 50 feet long - I mean, there are seven bolts - but I suppose that's just nitpicking. Probably could be .10d, but I'm calling it .11a for personal satisfaction. We'll see what the book says in May. Apr 6, 2011