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Routes in (4) Music Hall

Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Big Nose Valentino T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Crack S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fucking Fall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wedding Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 667 total, 7/month
Shared By: BrianWS on May 6, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Large slopers and round holds pass three bolts to a ledge. Tall climbers (over 6 feet tall) can easily clip and pass the next two bolts, however shorter climbers require a bit of creative legwork in the large horizontal under the fourth bolt and small holds in between the big stuff.

In the original guidebook, written by a generation that is *far* shorter on average than the current crop of Taiwanese, this route was rated 5.11c/d. It has since been downgraded to 5.11b

In July, 2015, two Petzl Collinox (forged 304-steel) bolts simultaneously broke off while a climber was being lowered. The climber escaped with naught but a bruised butt. A truly historic event in local history...

Location

Middle of the main face

Protection

Titanium (2016/17)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11
This route and those adjacent have been rebolted with titanium. Apr 18, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11
Hopefully everyone who climbs at LD knows that bolt failure is not a freak accident. It was just a silly turn of phrase. Some titanium has been installed (one for the anchor of Fingercrack, all the anchors at Euro Wall, and others) but many local "experts" have their doubts about its safety... Jul 24, 2015
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Holy shit... Glad to hear the climber was ok.
If both anchor bolts broke, I wouldn't call it a "freak" accident. That's a pretty good indication of the quality for many other pieces of supposedly sound hardware from the big 2006 rebolt.

Has there been any movement towards installing titanium yet? Jul 24, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11
The anchors broke off during a freak top-roping incident yesterday. Hopefully they'll be replaced soon. Otherwise, if you trust the bolts, you can climb the line and step right to the Fingercrack anchors at the top. Jul 24, 2015
Danger
Taipei City
 
Danger   Taipei City
 
As a shorter dude, the suggested beta for me was "grow" but after watching my taller partner tackle the crux with creative Leg-work, I used very similar methods to get past the ledge -- height may be a hindrance but certainly not an excuse on this climb.

However the fun doesnt stop there! Poor feet and small holds after the ledge mean sustained 11b action all the way to the anchors. Jun 29, 2014
Anmin Deng
Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Anmin Deng   Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
The name "‘åŒÛ" ("da4-gu3") means "Big Drum", not "Big Canyon" (where "Drum" and "Canyon" sound identical ("gu3") in Chinese). Many routes in "Music Hall" are named after music instruments. Jan 14, 2011
This route is named Big Canyon (‘å’J or da gu). Like many other routes at Music Hall, it is equipped with reliable glue-in bolts. 5.11b is a fair grade. May 12, 2010