Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 253 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 25, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

An old-timey sport route that was listed as a trad route in the 2012 guidebook, then rebolted later that year. The line as climbed avoids the corner to the right, and thus solid gear placements are few and far between. Either way, it's a fun and too-oft-ignored route.

On the right side of a clean(ish) buttress, find the bolt about six feet off the ground. Move up this to a thin horizontal and a rightward traverse. You can cheat into the dihedral, but then you would be skipping the physical crux, which is well-protected. Move back left at the diagonal crack to an interesting rest below a small roof. Pull up on small holds to a crack-ridden slab and the technical crux of the route. Finish on big jugs to the ledge above and scramble to the strangely-placed anchors.

Location

Leftmost (southern) bolted buttress at Music Hall, before the Broken Faces area

Protection

316 steel (2012)
One titanium bolted added to anchor (2014)

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
 
Danger   Taipei City
 
One of the best at the grade and certainly much better than that fuckin' climb to the right...

Both Ryan and Greg climbed this and agreed the bolted line wouldn't go well on trad. Aug 19, 2014