Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 65 ft|
|Page Views:||219 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Nov 25, 2013|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionAn old-timey sport route that was listed as a trad route in the 2012 guidebook, then rebolted later that year. The line as climbed avoids the corner to the right, and thus solid gear placements are few and far between. Either way, it's a fun and too-oft-ignored route.
On the right side of a clean(ish) buttress, find the bolt about six feet off the ground. Move up this to a thin horizontal and a rightward traverse. You can cheat into the dihedral, but then you would be skipping the physical crux, which is well-protected. Move back left at the diagonal crack to an interesting rest below a small roof. Pull up on small holds to a crack-ridden slab and the technical crux of the route. Finish on big jugs to the ledge above and scramble to the strangely-placed anchors.