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The Nut Pitch
5.8,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
FA: unknown
International
> Asia
> Taiwan
> Long Dong (Drag…
> (4) Music Hall
Description
good lay-backing up dihedral for about 20 ft. before transitioning over to broken, scary-looking chimney (that actually feels surprisingly solid).
Location
starts in the dihedral left of fucking fall and just right of bolted face climb, composure. continually trend right and use anchors atop fucking fall
Protection
Thin gear
Titanium anchor (2016)
![My first pro on The Nut Pitch. Looks sketchy but the DMM offset felt suprisingly tight and solid - it would not pop out unless rock breaks. There's a bomber placement for a 0.4'' cam 1m above.]()
[Hide Photo] My first pro on The Nut Pitch. Looks sketchy but the DMM offset felt suprisingly tight and solid - it would not pop out unless rock breaks. There's a bomber placement for a 0.4'' cam 1m…
![365. The Nut Pitch]()
[Hide Photo] 365. The Nut Pitch
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The first few moves, which is the crux, is not protected at all - have a good spotter; the rest can be easily protected.
Nuts are useful but there are also many good placements for mid size cams (to 1''), a 2'' can be used to protect the final move.
If feeling adventurous, one can continue climbing to the ledge above the anchor; there's some loose rocks and grass but it can be well protected, I'd grade it 5.8. There's the Wedding Route anchor on the ledge but one'd rather extend it and place a few directionals as it is a few meters to the right. Apr 17, 2017