Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 885 total · 14/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Must have been climbed at some point; this is almost the definition of a classic climb.

Optional belay at 50ft on a nice ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag). Sweet 10- OW to the big ledge, then hands to thin hands forever. Pinches down to fingers and then tips right near the top.

Location

Look for the most obvious crack up canyon from Red Tail Tower (see overview topo).

Protection

Doubles from grey camalot to green Camalot. 3 or 4 reds, 3 golds, 1 blue, 1#6, #5 optional, nuts optional. Maybe take a green alien.

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Bring a red C3 for the tips.
A 70m rope just barely doesn't make it from the top anchors to the lower anchor. You need to either swing hard right to Vicar anchors or bring a 2nd rope. Apr 8, 2014