All Locations > New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon

Main Cliff Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Main Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	50 Years of Solitude T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Antelope Boy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Blockhead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Captain Obvious T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Capulin Classic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Circumlocution T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Crap T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dark Crystal T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Easy, Vicar! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Endgame T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Fergus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fifty Shades of Grey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fists of Fury T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	FPR T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Frisky Widow T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gauntlet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Hallucinogen Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Hellbender T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	History Lesson T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Holloween T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hollowlean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Killa Beez T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lightning Road T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Little Teabag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Little Teapot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Loctite T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Monkey Business T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Monkey Spank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Monster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Nuclear Winter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Orb Weaver T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Perk Up T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Perk-ocet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Perkolater T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Physical T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Pinch Point T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pinky Mice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pintrest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Ponderosa T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Red Bull and Copenhagen T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Restless T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Rue Morgue Avenue T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Rufie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Silver City T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Simian Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Slotterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Squoze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Stairway to Heaven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Sticky Fingers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Taqueria T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unfinished T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unnamed 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unnamed 3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Urban Fantasy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	White Corner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Whole Lota Rosie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Widdershins T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Widowmaker T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Witchcraft and Widgetry T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13

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Elevation:	7,477 ft	2,279 m
GPS:	35.77557, -106.37484 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Josh Smith on Oct 26, 2013 · Updates
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Description

The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.

Many of these routes have only been climbed once. Expect loose rock and some dirt.

Getting There

Approach Beta as of 11/27/21:

Approach via the main trail from the parking lot and once at the bottom of the wash continue hiking down stream in the wash for another 5-10 mins. The trail to Main Wall takes you to the upstream (West) side of the wall. After the Upper Wall ends keep an eye out for a cairn on your left. Exit the wash at the cairn and follow the decently marked trail up to the cliff. The trail tops out on the far left side of the wall near Window Maker.

64 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 9 ● Easy, Vicar! Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 18 ● Captain Obvious Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 12 ● Blockhead Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 14 ● Monkey Spank Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 4 ● Physical Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 4 ● Pintrest Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 19 ● Squoze Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 21 ● Frisky Widow Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 11 ● Hellbender Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 5 ● Capulin Classic Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 4 ● Stairway to Heaven Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 5 ● History Lesson Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 7 ● Monkey Business Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 7 ● Widowmaker Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 5 ● Pretty Fly for a White Guy Trad