Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: George Perkins, Calita Quesada
Page Views: 197 total · 3/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 31, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Easy 5.8 featured climbing to the large ledge. Small trees have burned, so no anchor to come down after just p1. Move belay right on the slab to the base of a long OW. P2: Lieback the OW up past scary pillar, step right on the ledge and finish on a finger crack to a burned tree.

Protection

Standard rack w/ #4, #5, #6 camalot

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
If someone wants to put an anchor on the top of p1, go ahead. My anchor on the small bushes burned away. This would make doable a 90', well-protected, 5.8 that would be one of the easiest climbs at the cliff. I climbed it twice, it was fairly non-descript but wasn't bad.

Re: pitch 2. The OW pillar was scary, not in a fun way, like the whole thing was going to break off, be cautious. After backing off the previous autumn, I bought a #5 just for this OW, then borrowed a #6. Maybe my memory is being dramatic? After the OW, I stepped right on a ledge and finished with a finger crack in a L-facing corner (shared with the end of "Loctite") to a tree, which may or may not still be appropriate as an anchor (I haven't been back up, but it looks alive from below). If it's not, feel free to put bolts in up there too. From the high ledge, a crack 15' to the left may prove to be a better, more direct, independent finish, and I would have done that except that the Loctite finish was still new at the time and looked cleaner. For those looking for unclimbed cracks, there may also be some cracks (mostly wider, with scary-looking blocks) that continue directly above the p1 corner, that, with cleaning, might prove to be a better way to take the route to the top. Dec 4, 2017