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Routes in Main Cliff

Blockhead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Captain Obvious T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Capulin Classic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Circumlocution T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crap T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Crystal T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy, Vicar! T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Endgame T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fergus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fists of Fury T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Free Pussy Riot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frisky Widow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gauntlet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hallucinogen Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hellbender T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
History Lesson T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holloween T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hollowlean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killa Beez T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lightning Road T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Loctite T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monkey Business T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monkey Spank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Monster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nuclear Winter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orb Weaver T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perk Up T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Perk-ocet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Perkolater T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Physical T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pinch Point T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pinky Mice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pintrest T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ponderosa T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Restless T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rue Morgue Avenue T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rufie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silver City T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Simian Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slotterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squoze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway to Heaven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sticky Fingers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Taqueria T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unfinished T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urban Fantasy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
White Dihedral C1+
Whole Lota Rosie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Widdershins T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Widowmaker T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchcraft and Widgetry T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: George Perkins, Calita Quesada
Page Views: 556 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

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Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - The entire Santa Fe National Forest closed to access due Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Climbs a cool pocketed face to a ledge mid-way up with some loose rock (optional belay). Steep corner to an exciting traverse, ending at the big burned tree . Rap off the burned tree (bring webbing).

Checking for Chipmunks. Left variation, 5.10R; to the roof, LB over, head to Treehugger tree. Wider than #6.

Location [Suggest Change]

See overview topo.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack to #3, set of nuts.

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
One of the better full-length 5.9/5.10-'s at Capulin. Originally I stopped at a tree, but that was burned in the 2011 Las Conchas fire and is gone except for a charred stump. If you climb it now, build an anchor just past the ledge where the tree was. From here, climb up and over a block, then wander up a short 5.9 crack to the rim; or from the belay, go straight up unprotected 5.9/5.10 tight squeeze chimney for 35' (I backed off of it). You ought to be able to find other anchors to rap off by hiking a short ways in either direction.

If someone wants to put a bolted anchor on top where the tree was or somewhere else that makes more sense, please go ahead. I kind of liked the hand traverse/mantle onto the ledge, though it's a little bit scary, I found it rewarding and it's been repeated a number of times. A bolted anchor on the mid-way ledge might also be appropriate- the bottom face is pretty fun, cool hueco'ed rock, and the climb to that point would be one of the best easier climbs at the wall (5.9-) and could be done with half a rope. Oct 31, 2013
Mark D.
Santa Fe
  5.10a
Mark D.   Santa Fe
  5.10a
Interesting route but it felt a little harder than 5.9. The rope drag was full on after the traverse. The exit to where the burnt tree was is only a move but really tough and unprotected. We ended up grabbing the yucca to pull over the lip. Sep 26, 2016

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