Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: George Perkins, Calita Quesada
Page Views: 620 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Climbs a cool pocketed face to a ledge mid-way up with some loose rock (optional belay). Steep corner to an exciting traverse, ending at the big burned tree . Rap off the burned tree (bring webbing).

Checking for Chipmunks. Left variation, 5.10R; to the roof, LB over, head to Treehugger tree. Wider than #6.


See overview topo.


Standard rack to #3, set of nuts.


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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
One of the better full-length 5.9/5.10-'s at Capulin. Originally I stopped at a tree, but that was burned in the 2011 Las Conchas fire and is gone except for a charred stump. If you climb it now, build an anchor just past the ledge where the tree was. From here, climb up and over a block, then wander up a short 5.9 crack to the rim; or from the belay, go straight up unprotected 5.9/5.10 tight squeeze chimney for 35' (I backed off of it). You ought to be able to find other anchors to rap off by hiking a short ways in either direction.

If someone wants to put a bolted anchor on top where the tree was or somewhere else that makes more sense, please go ahead. I kind of liked the hand traverse/mantle onto the ledge, though it's a little bit scary, I found it rewarding and it's been repeated a number of times. A bolted anchor on the mid-way ledge might also be appropriate- the bottom face is pretty fun, cool hueco'ed rock, and the climb to that point would be one of the best easier climbs at the wall (5.9-) and could be done with half a rope. If you just want to climb the bottom half, you can do so currently: traverse right after the pocketed face and descend using the p1 anchor for Slotterhouse. Oct 31, 2013
Mark D.
Santa Fe
Mark D.   Santa Fe
Interesting route but it felt a little harder than 5.9. The rope drag was full on after the traverse. The exit to where the burnt tree was is only a move but really tough and unprotected. We ended up grabbing the yucca to pull over the lip. Sep 26, 2016