Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: George Perkins, Calita Quesada
Page Views: 620 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climbs a cool pocketed face to a ledge mid-way up with some loose rock (optional belay). Steep corner to an exciting traverse, ending at the big burned tree . Rap off the burned tree (bring webbing).

Checking for Chipmunks. Left variation, 5.10R; to the roof, LB over, head to Treehugger tree. Wider than #6.

Location

See overview topo.

Protection

Standard rack to #3, set of nuts.

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
One of the better full-length 5.9/5.10-'s at Capulin. Originally I stopped at a tree, but that was burned in the 2011 Las Conchas fire and is gone except for a charred stump. If you climb it now, build an anchor just past the ledge where the tree was. From here, climb up and over a block, then wander up a short 5.9 crack to the rim; or from the belay, go straight up unprotected 5.9/5.10 tight squeeze chimney for 35' (I backed off of it). You ought to be able to find other anchors to rap off by hiking a short ways in either direction.

If someone wants to put a bolted anchor on top where the tree was or somewhere else that makes more sense, please go ahead. I kind of liked the hand traverse/mantle onto the ledge, though it's a little bit scary, I found it rewarding and it's been repeated a number of times. A bolted anchor on the mid-way ledge might also be appropriate- the bottom face is pretty fun, cool hueco'ed rock, and the climb to that point would be one of the best easier climbs at the wall (5.9-) and could be done with half a rope. If you just want to climb the bottom half, you can do so currently: traverse right after the pocketed face and descend using the p1 anchor for Slotterhouse. Oct 31, 2013
Mark D.
Santa Fe
  5.10a
Mark D.   Santa Fe
  5.10a
Interesting route but it felt a little harder than 5.9. The rope drag was full on after the traverse. The exit to where the burnt tree was is only a move but really tough and unprotected. We ended up grabbing the yucca to pull over the lip. Sep 26, 2016