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Routes in Main Cliff

Blockhead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Captain Obvious T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Capulin Classic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Circumlocution T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crap T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Crystal T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy, Vicar! T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Endgame T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fergus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fists of Fury T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Free Pussy Riot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frisky Widow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gauntlet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hallucinogen Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hellbender T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
History Lesson T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holloween T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hollowlean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killa Beez T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lightning Road T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Loctite T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monkey Business T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monkey Spank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Monster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nuclear Winter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orb Weaver T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perk Up T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Perk-ocet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Perkolater T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Physical T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pinch Point T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pinky Mice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pintrest T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ponderosa T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Restless T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rue Morgue Avenue T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rufie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silver City T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simian Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slotterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squoze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway to Heaven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sticky Fingers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Taqueria T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unfinished T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urban Fantasy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
White Dihedral C1+
Whole Lota Rosie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Widdershins T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Widowmaker T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchcraft and Widgetry T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
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Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Josh Smith, Mark Wolfenden
Page Views: 246 total · 4/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

2 pitches. P1, start up the thin finger crack 20 feet up canyon from the Red Tail Tower. Step left into the dihedral, up the face crack and reach right at the small roof, make a big move right to gain the anchor shared by Perkolator (single 11ish move). P2. Climb P2 of Perkolator-- through a 10+ roof, up nice cracks to a huge chimney, up the 5.9 off-width on the left side of the chimney.

This is a very fun way to the top of the cliff at a moderate grade.

Location

Walk around Red Tail Tower and look for the short finger crack just a few feet up canyon from it.

Protection

Doubles/triples in finger sizes through hand sizes, #4, #5, #6 for the wider stuff up high.

Photos

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Josh Smith
  5.11-
Josh Smith  
  5.11-
At one time this route split just past the roof. You could clip a bolt on the face and finish on Lightning Road rather than do the off width. The bolt has been removed. Dec 21, 2015

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