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Main Cliff

New Mexico > Jemez Area > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon

Description

The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.

Many of these routes have only been climbed once. Expect loose rock and some dirt.

Getting There

Approach Beta as of 11/27/21:

Approach via the main trail from the parking lot and once at the bottom of the wash continue hiking down stream in the wash for another 5-10 mins. The trail to Main Wall takes you to the upstream (West) side of the wall. After the Upper Wall ends keep an eye out for a cairn on your left. Exit the wash at the cairn and follow the decently marked trail up to the cliff. The trail tops out on the far left side of the wall near Window Maker.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Taqueria
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Restless
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
Pinch Point
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
FPR
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Killa Beez
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Monster
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
Rufie
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
Unnamed
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Garden Party
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Little Teapot
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Little Teabag
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
50 Years of Solitude
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Fifty Shades of Grey
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Whole Lota Rosie
Trad 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Widowmaker
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Frisky Widow
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Red Bull and Copenhagen
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
Blockhead
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Fists of Fury
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 0
Unfinished
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 2
Hallucinogen Roof
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
Perk Up
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
Silver City
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 1
Perk-ocet
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
 3
Witchcraft and Widgetry
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Capulin Classic
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Easy, Vicar!
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
Pinky Mice
Trad 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Antelope Boy
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Stairway to Heaven
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
Hellbender
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Lightning Road
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
Circumlocution
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
Perkolater
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
Widdershins
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
Gauntlet
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
Fergus
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Tree Hugger
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Slotterhouse
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 2
White Corner
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
Unnamed 2
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
History Lesson
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Simian Sunshine
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 5
Pretty Fly for a White Guy
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Captain Obvious
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Monkey Business
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 14
Monkey Spank
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 19
Squoze
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Orb Weaver
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Urban Fantasy
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Pintrest
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Physical
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Nuclear Winter
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Loctite
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Dark Crystal
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Unnamed 3
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Ponderosa
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Crap
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Holloween
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Hollowlean
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
Rue Morgue Avenue
Trad 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Less Than Zero
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Sticky Fingers
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
Endgame
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Taqueria
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Restless
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Pinch Point
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
FPR
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Killa Beez
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Monster
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Rufie
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Unnamed
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Garden Party
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Little Teapot
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Little Teabag
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
50 Years of Solitude
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Fifty Shades of Grey
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Whole Lota Rosie
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Widowmaker
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Frisky Widow
 22
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Red Bull and Copenhagen
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Blockhead
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Fists of Fury
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Unfinished
 0
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hallucinogen Roof
 2
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Perk Up
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Silver City
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Perk-ocet
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Witchcraft and Widgetry
 3
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 Trad
Capulin Classic
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Easy, Vicar!
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Pinky Mice
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Antelope Boy
 1
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Stairway to Heaven
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Hellbender
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Lightning Road
 1
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Circumlocution
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Perkolater
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Widdershins
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Gauntlet
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Fergus
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Tree Hugger
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Slotterhouse
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
White Corner
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
Unnamed 2
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
History Lesson
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Simian Sunshine
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pretty Fly for a White Guy
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Captain Obvious
 18
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Monkey Business
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Monkey Spank
 14
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Squoze
 19
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Orb Weaver
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Urban Fantasy
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Pintrest
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Physical
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Nuclear Winter
 1
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Loctite
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Dark Crystal
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Unnamed 3
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Ponderosa
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Crap
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Holloween
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hollowlean
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rue Morgue Avenue
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Less Than Zero
 2
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Sticky Fingers
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Endgame
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The obvious bench between Restless (upcanyon) and Rufie holds some excellent climbs. From left to right: <br>
Restless<br>
PInch Point<br>
Free Pussy Riot<br>
Killa Beez<br>
Monster<br>
Rufie
[Hide Photo] The obvious bench between Restless (upcanyon) and Rufie holds some excellent climbs. From left to right: Restless PInch Point Free Pussy Riot Killa Beez Monster Rufie
Routes surrounding Monkey Up and Pretty Fly.
[Hide Photo] Routes surrounding Monkey Up and Pretty Fly.
Topo of Half-Century Corner sector
[Hide Photo] Topo of Half-Century Corner sector
Topo of "Simian Sector" on Main Wall
[Hide Photo] Topo of "Simian Sector" on Main Wall
Overview showing Stairway to Heaven, Hellbender, and Lightning Road.
[Hide Photo] Overview showing Stairway to Heaven, Hellbender, and Lightning Road.
Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area. The most obvious line in the photo has anchors but hasn't been climbed clean yet.
[Hide Photo] Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area. The most obvious line in the photo has anchors but hasn't been climbed clean yet.
Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall.
[Hide Photo] Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall.
Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
[Hide Photo] Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
[Hide Photo] Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
[Hide Photo] Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marked.
[Hide Photo] Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marked.