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Routes in Main Cliff

Blockhead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Captain Obvious T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Capulin Classic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Circumlocution T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crap T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Crystal T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy, Vicar! T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Endgame T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fergus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fists of Fury T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Free Pussy Riot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frisky Widow T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gauntlet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hallucinogen Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hellbender T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
History Lesson T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holloween T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hollowlean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killa Beez T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Less Than Zero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lightning Road T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Loctite T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monkey Spank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Monster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nuclear Winter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orb Weaver T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perk Up T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Perk-ocet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Perkolater T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Physical T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pinch Point T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pinky Mice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pintrest T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ponderosa T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Restless T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rue Morgue Avenue T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rufie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silver City T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slotterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squoze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway to Heaven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sticky Fingers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Taqueria T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Hugger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unfinished T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urban Fantasy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
White Dihedral C1+
Whole Lota Rosie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Widdershins T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Widowmaker T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchcraft and Widgetry T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Eric Bissell
Page Views: 248 total, 10/month
Shared By: EricBis on Dec 12, 2015
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The thin, clean open book left of Capulin Classic. The corner starts at tiny wires and gradually opens to .4 camalots at the hanging roof. Bouldery moves through the roof take you to a no-hands ledge. Clip a long LA and follow the left seam/crack through two more bulging cruxes. A spectacular trad route.

Location

Left of Capulin Classic. Climb up the OW to the sloping ramp to a two-bolt belay for the corner. 70m rope only barely reaches with stretch from anchors above the right exit back to the base of the corner. Knot your Rope!!

Protection

Small wires, (2ea) .1-.2 (3ea) .3-.4 (1ea) .5-1 (opt.) #4 for final moves to rim or TR directional

Photos

EricBis
 
EricBis  
 
Thanks George! Such an amaaazing trad route. Capulin blows me away every time I go. Such a unique, fragile area with spectacular hard aesthetic lines. Kinda the epitome location of treading lightly. Was a little hesitant putting the pin in, but it was bomber and potentially a seriously needed piece. The next two pieces after it are super small and in questionable rock. Nice to know you have one good piece below. The right-fork is awesome up top and definitely more relaxed because the chances of falling out of the OW are so low. The left-fork adds two insecure cruxes and makes the whole route pretty sustained. I've got FA bias... but it blew me away. Also thank you guys for the new trail!! That thing is mega and beautiful in it's own right!
Fingers crossed for a short closing this year. I'll be calling the FS when I get the beta from Josh on that business. Dec 19, 2015
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Way to go Eric!! One of the best and most obvious lines at Capulin for sure! A few of us have pretended to climb this over the last 5 years, not one of us was close, but we knew it was all there and did all the moves (Josh having done it more respectably than anyone else, we both tried it at least 2-3 times). We thought the roof might need a bolt but that's even better that it doesn't. Small fingers and good flexibility will help on the stemming up the first half, but a good span may help on the roof. We were usually doing the right fork on the upper half- wide 5.10 after you enter it.. The left fork looks even better! Awesome!!! Must be one of the best trad pitches 5.12+/5.13 in NM (in my unqualified wussy opinion). Dec 12, 2015