Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Josh Smith, George Perkins
Page Views: 360 total · 6/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This route stacks up against the best anywhere and it will challenge every one of your crack climbing skills. Had a huge bridge/block spanning the chimney; the Widomaker. The many-ton Widowmaker block fell out of the chimney in the winter of 10/11. Head up towards the big roof; step left and clip two bolts, climbing on the arête. Tip into the corner. Tips to fingers to hands to a fist crack to the roof. Over the roof a 20 ft 6” crack takes you to the anchors.

Location

Look for the unmistakable huge chimney with the 15 foot roof at the top.

Protection

Single set TCUs 0.1 to 0.5. 2 each .75, 3 each #1-3. Optional #4 and #6 (the 6” portion of the crack is about 5.9 but there's a slight chance you'll be tired by this point). Long slings needed to control drag.

Photos

Forest Altherr
Los Alamos, NM
Forest Altherr   Los Alamos, NM
This is an absolute classic and must do route at Capulin. In my opinion (And with big hands) this route felt easier than History Lesson at 11+. Bringing a #6 helps you feel comfortable in the final run to the anchor but not absolutely necessary. Dec 2, 2018