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Widowmaker
5.12-,
Trad, 180 ft (55 m),
Avg: 4 from 6
votes
FA: Josh Smith, George Perkins
New Mexico
> Jemez Mountains…
> Capulin Canyon…
> Capulin Canyon
> Main Cliff
Description
This route stacks up against the best anywhere and it will challenge every one of your crack climbing skills. Had a huge bridge/block spanning the chimney; the Widomaker. The many-ton Widowmaker block fell out of the chimney in the winter of 10/11. Head up towards the big roof; step left and clip two bolts, climbing on the arête. Tip into the corner. Tips to fingers to hands to a fist crack to the roof. Over the roof a 20 ft 6 crack takes you to the anchors.
Location
Look for the unmistakable huge chimney with the 15 foot roof at the top.
Protection
Single set TCUs 0.1 to 0.5. 2 each .75, 3 each #1-3, 1 each #4 and #6. The 6 portion of the crack is over the roof and about 5.9. Long slings needed to control drag.
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Salt Lake City, UT