Type: Trad, 195 ft (59 m), 2 pitches
FA: Josh Smith, Matt Balkey, George Perkins
Page Views: 872 total · 7/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 31, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Rue Morgue Avenue is a complex route. P1 95ft, 5.11. P2 is 110ft going to the left up the big chimney, 5.11. P2a is 110 ft going right up the big chimney from the belay (5.12ish around the obvious roof). P1. Start up the finger crack that splits the face directly below the huge roof. When finger crack ends, climb blocky steep thin cracks to the large ledge—look for a pin to the right of the dihedral about 80 feet up. The rock gets better as the climb goes along. P2. Climb the hand crack through the roof just left of the belay, aiming for the left side of the roof. Climb fat hands to the roof, traverse left on good holds; exit up to an easy groove. P2a. Step right, climb the finger crack to the OW to the roof. Hard moves past the roof, clip a pin, jugs to fingers to hands.

Location Suggest change

The roof is pretty easy to spot. It's huge, about two hundred feet up from the end of the cliff.

Protection Suggest change

P1: 2-3 each from 0-#1. Set nuts; RPs useful.
P2: 2# 1s, 3 #2s, 3-4 #3s, a few #0.5 to #0.75 cams can protect the roof traverse.
P2a: Doubles fingers to #3, 1-#5 for the OW. A purple TCU can protect before the pin.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments