Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: A. Miller with some combination of effort by W. Vining, G. Perkins and J. Smith
Page Views: 339 total · 27/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Nov 27, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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A super fun route with some variety. Start with a piece low in flakes to get to a bolt out right (flakes are flexy up high, therefore the bolt). Stand up in pod to reach splitter hands to a ledge. Interesting and wild moves up a tips corner to a ledge stance where you can clip an anchor.

This was originally considered a dirty 40’ toprope at 5.10 in early ascents by J. Smith and others. The addition of 25’ of good interesting climbing with a super fun crux move makes it worthy as its own.

An extension past first anchor to the upper anchor (Serious Monkey Business??) has yet to be sent, and may be still red tagged by one of the FA party. This will be at least 12+ but likely harder, if possible (can people climb purple C3s?)


Just left of dark corner route Monkey Spank. Look for bolt 15' off ground.


single rack from green C3 (purple TCU) to red Camalot. An extra #1 and .3 helpful.


George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
edited to consolidate and after talk with Aaron and Will:

I attempted this crack and led it up to the seam (where the low anchor is now) with Calita & Josh, and possibly some others, in 2010 or early 2011, before the fire, I think it was the same day Josh did the FA of Monkey Spank. The seam was still filled with dirt and plants, and also clearly too hard for me then, so my partners encouraged me to come down and climb something else rather than continue aiding and cleaning. I didn’t put in an anchor, as we wanted to save hardware for other longer, more doable cracks, and at the time, we felt the full climb continued through the seam. I downclimbed/down-aided from my high point, leaving no gear. My partners did the bottom 40’ through the thin hands that day on TR.

It was noted as #35 in Josh's route list as unfinished and unnamed. It had been in the back of my mind to come back and finish it, but there was the 2-year fire closure, and I knew it was probably too hard for me, and there were so many other cracks to try, including all the new ones at the Upper Wall. I also would need to borrow a drill to put the anchor in. If someone else did it first, that was fine with me too, but that wasn't much of a risk in those days.

After talking with Aaron, he also got on it a few years ago as well, not knowing I’d gone pretty high up on it before, as I didn’t put in any bolts and the fire had surely erased any sign of my attempt on it.
(continued on 2nd comment due to character limit) Nov 27, 2017
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
Thanks George. We tried this years ago too and thought it was too dirty and the top nearly impossible, so we didn't bolt it because we didn't think it was going to get climbed in its current state but discussed coming back sometime to finish cleaning it and make it a worthy climb. Cleaned out buckets of dirt and weeds from it yesterday (so much dirt cleaned that the lower flakes now flex 2-3mm in its upper 5’, which is why it needed a bolt) and it was clear it would be worthy in a shorter version as a high quality 5.11, and it is!!! And the best part is that someone can still try the top section, it might someday go??? I sure hope you can figure it out and send the whole rig, that would be amazing. Though I’m not sure many people will climb past 65 feet of fantastic 5.11 to do 6 feet of 5.13. I don’t think I can do it. Nov 27, 2017
Aaron, I'm glad you put the bolt in, those blocks were super "exciting" expanding nuts on aid! I'm psyched you have turned this in to a good free climb. My working name after I aided the upper section was "dry lightning" as there was considerable thunder while I drilled the anchors. It is certainly not red tagged, someone should do it, pretty fun and very climbing with tiny gear. Nov 27, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
(con't from 1st comment)
Earlier this summer, with Rika Beck and myself, Will Vining led it to the ledge and installed the high anchor, cleaning and aiding the final thin section on RPs and TCUs. This seemed a good crack for us to practice aid climbing for an upcoming wall, and to finally check out the top. We then TRed the entire route. Though the final stemming seam was hard for us (we max at 12- on gear), we felt it might go in cooler temperatures at 12+. Will and I were psyched, both about aiding it and about finding a new hard but possibly doable crack! We didn't post it because the top hadn't yet been sent; we sprayed at anyone who would listen to come and try it with us this fall. Then we didn’t make it out to Capulin much, distracted by life and other climbs.

Now that the whole route is cleaned and the climb to the intermediate anchor is posted, anyone who wants to can (and should!) totally get on it! (I've never thought to red-tag a climb, and if it was important to me, I'd have made time to get back to it.) Most of the finish is low 12, with a hard move where I needed about 6” more reach out of the stem. The gear is small but good (and the new intermediate bolted anchor will save you if we’re wrong about that). My TR flailing estimation is it’s easier than “Witchcraft” but harder than “Pretty Fly”, climbing like a pissed-off version of “History Lessons” crux. 

To be clear: none of us are at all bothered by the bolt or the new intermediate anchor, and we don’t care about names or FA credit, and there’s no hard feelings at all! Aaron told me he didn’t know we'd climbed it or that the higher anchor was there until after he climbed to the seam, with the idea to finally put an anchor on a fun crack he had started a few years ago. To the low anchor, as described here, it's pretty fun, with good (not tiny) gear, mostly 5.10 with a 5.11 finish.

Given all this, the name Aaron gave to it, "Monkey Business", seems quite appropriate, and is ok with me. Nov 27, 2017