Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: A. Miller with some combination of effort by W. Vining, G. Perkins and J. Smith
Page Views: 409 total · 21/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Nov 27, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A super fun route with some variety. Start with a piece low in flakes to get to a bolt out right (flakes are flexy up high, therefore the bolt). Stand up in pod to reach splitter hands to a ledge. Interesting and wild moves up a tips corner to a ledge stance where you can clip an anchor.

This was originally considered a dirty 40’ toprope at 5.10 in early ascents by J. Smith and others. The addition of 25’ of good interesting climbing with a super fun crux move makes it worthy as its own.

An extension past first anchor to the upper anchor (Serious Monkey Business??) has yet to be sent, and may be still red tagged by one of the FA party. This will be at least 12+ but likely harder, if possible (can people climb purple C3s?)

Location

Just left of dark corner route Monkey Spank. Look for bolt 15' off ground.

Protection

single rack from green C3 (purple TCU) to red Camalot. An extra #1 and .3 helpful.

Photos