Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Josh Smith, Mark Wolfenden
Page Views: 69 total · 1/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Throw down or run—your choice. Thin moves to a bit of crimpy face climbing. The rock at the start is better than it looks (but only just). The crux is protected by a bolt. The finger crack on the headwall above the anchor was aided but remains unsent—small gear on dubious rock.

Location

Go up behind Red Tail Tower on the down canyon side. Gauntlet is behind the big tree.

Protection

Doubles from 0 to #2s. A #3 is nice as the first piece, and two extra reds for the hand crack might be useful. Possible to place a #3 at the very top. Nuts optional.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11d
The crux was originally protected by a shitty pin, instead of a bolt, when josh first freed this.
RPs and small nuts are useful if you have to cheat at the crux. Oct 30, 2013