Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Josh Smith
Page Views: 176 total · 3/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 31, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Get out your sticky fly feet. Crux is sustained tips/stemming off the pillar near the bottom leads to excellent 5.11 climbing.

Location

Obvious clean dihedral that goes all the way to the top of the cliff, near where the trail hits the cliff.

Protection

Many tips to fingers pieces in a stemming dihedral, lots of fat fingers/thin hands to follow.

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Leslie Gains-Germain
Golden, CO
 
Leslie Gains-Germain   Golden, CO
 
A fun, technical route that will challenge your stemming skills. I thought the crux was at the very top of the clean corner. I protected the clean corner with 0.3 C4s/X4s and red C3s. I found a #1 placement and several 0.4 and 0.5 placements in the middle and upper parts of the route. I wish I had saved a smaller cam, such as a 0.3 or a 0.4 for the very last upper section. There is also a spot for a #3 C4 to protect the very last move onto the ledge. Overall, I recommend 2-3 red C3s, 5 each of #0.3, #0.4, and #0.5 BD cams, 1 #0.75, 1 #1, and 1 #3. I don't recall placing anything smaller, but a 0 or 00 C3 may come in handy. Dec 3, 2018