Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Josh Smith, Sam Gardner
Page Views: 113 total · 2/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

P1 is 5.11-, 90’, P2 is 5.10, 75ft. Climb the clean dihedral, placing an excellent small nut and clipping a bolt and getting good finger-size gear above. Belay on the slab at anchors. Climb the finger/hand crack to the roof.

Location

Start directly below the big roof.

Protection

Singles to 075, doubles in #1-2. One quickdraw.

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
P1 can by bypassed to its right via 5.7 cracks, making this a good choice for a 5.10 climber.
The start of p2 goes up a L-facing corner on a slab with very small gear, if done directly. For better gear, climb the finger crack splitter 15' to the left, then hand-traverse the flake back right.
We'd stared at this roof a bunch when first climbing here, hoping the cracks exiting the roof would go, until Josh finally went and checked it out. But they are too thin- it won't go, thus the name. Apr 17, 2017