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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown A S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Rick Ziegler/Austin Archer
Page Views: 12,808 total, 228/month
Shared By: rickziegler Ziegler on Apr 29, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The Big Deal starts from the top of “The High Life” (5.8), which is a 35m right trending flake system located 100 feet left of "PBR Streetgang."

The Big Deal is 2/3 crack climbing and 1/3 slab and face features that connect the crack systems left of "PBR Streetgang." Clean, well protected and fun.

Location

At the far right of PSOM Slab
APPROACH: Follow directions for PSOM Pinnacle. Continue on approach trail until at base on “The High Life.” “The High Life” starts 100 feet left of “PBR Streetgang” in a right trending flake, 5.8 (35m).

Protection

Stoppers. Double of small to medium cams. Singles #1 - #4 Camalot.

Description

P1 -From 2 bolt anchor atop The High Life, follow a slabby, right trending crack for 40 meters. Where crack peters out, step left into seams protected with small to med nuts lead to 2 bolt anchor. 5.7. Gear: Nuts, doubles of small to med cams, single #1-#4 Camalot.
P2- Can be broken into 2 shorter pitches or 1, 60 m pitch. From the belay stem up seams (5.8, gear and a bolt). Step right to a bolted slab move, then up left facing flake, pull over this to the right to a bolt and optional 2 bolt anchor. Move up easy but hollow flakes to a left facing corner that climbs over 2 roofs to 2 bolt anchor on right. 5.8, gear to 3.
P3- Move right into low angle fist crack, to a ledge. Follow left arching flake protected by small cams. Near top of arch step right and follow 4 bolts (5.9) to left leaning lieback protected by gear to 2 bolt anchor. 20 m.
Rappel route with 1 – 70m rope or 2 60m. The fourth rappel uses a 2 bolt anchor 30m below the P1 anchor.

Location

At the far right of PSOM Slab
APPROACH: Follow directions for PSOM Pinnacle. Continue on approach trail until at base on “The High Life.” “The High Life” starts 100 feet left of “PBR Streetgang” in a right trending flake, 5.8 (35m).

Protection

Stoppers. Double of small to medium cams. Singles #1 - #4 Camalot.
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.9
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.9
The first pitch of The Big Deal felt just as--if not more--tricky than the second pitch. It was definitely more slick.
The placement of the anchors on the last pitch is great for avoiding getting your rope caught on the raps, but it really felt like the last pitch ended suddenly and in an awkward section of the wall. Looked like there was 30+ feet more of decent slab climbing to be done, as well as half the flake left to lieback.
Our single 70 meter seemed to come up about 10 feet short of a couple of the rap stations, making our total number of raps 6, not 4. Oct 16, 2017
Thanks Erik! It's great to see people on this one May 12, 2017
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Reminded again today how uber-classic this excursion is.

Pitch 2-3/1-2? are so long and so good! In our assessment the best of the bunch.

Thanks Austin & Rick! May 11, 2017
Did this route yesterday. Stellar route, every pitch was a gem. Highly recommend linking the two linkable pitches.

For the descent, we followed the described beta down to the top of High Life. We then switched over to the anchors for PBR streetgang, which is the anchor to the right (closer to the water drainage) on that big ledge. From here, we rapped with our 70m and baaarely made it to the ground, but we had to hop over the waterfall rather than going directly down to the base of the climb. Not sure if the drainage is always flowing this high or if its just because of the big winter we just had. We, and our rope, got wet doing this last rap. May 5, 2017
El scorpion  
 
Fun, intersting moderate route which eats up gear. New anchor at top of route on the right works great to avoid the flake --thanks! Doubles in med sizes, you can place a grey #4 but its not needed (I used it a training weight for my wife - ditching low every pitch). There's a new grid bolted face climb just right of the 2/3rd pitches - it's ugly and do we really need another 5.10 something slab between two more natural lines? There are already enough rap anchors to TR any inch of this face. I thought the new gray/brown bolts to the right were really an eyesore - but maybe this is a "crag" now? May 28, 2016
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Thanks for moving the anchors, makes a great route even better! (Nobody has even stolen the rap rings yet. ;) )

Climbed it again yesterday, and everything was good. There's a loose flake in the corner before the roofs on pitch 2, but it's easily avoidable.

A word of advice: make sure to sling long at the start of the second pitch before the slab traverse at the third bolt, or maybe even skip placing a piece before stepping up to the bolt. (it's not a hard move.) I made that mistake and had heinous rope drag by the time that I got to the roofs. Apr 6, 2016
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
The anchors on the top of the last pitch have been moved over and to the right about 8 ft or so. This seemed to have fixed the problem with folks getting their ropes snagged on the "pillar/flake" above the 2nd pitch belay. Also, the last rappel anchor that gets one down to the "big ledge," has been moved out and is more visible now whereas before, it was somewhat hidden under a little visor. AGAIN, this route has its own equipped rappel stations separate of PBR. Some of the rappels are short and some are longer, but they're all there. One 70 meter rope will get you down. One of the rappel stations entails stopping at the 1st pitch anchor. Have fun. Oct 28, 2015
Miranda Serene
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Miranda Serene   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Classic and fun from bottom to top. Only a few 5.9 slab moves on the last pitch. Jun 19, 2015
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Yeah, there's a mid anchor about halfway down the first pitch. It's off to the right and a little hidden, so it's easy to miss if you don't know that it's there.

It puts you down close to the anchor at the top of the first pitch of PBR Streetgang. Nov 16, 2014
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
Climbed the first pitch yesterday, but bailed off due to high winds and frozen fingers. Rapped from the top of pitch 1 and had to downclimb 20 feet to the ledge, Did I miss a mid anchor, I was 30 feet above the top anchor for The High Life on my 70M. Nov 16, 2014
davefaus
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.9
davefaus   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.9
Great fun. An area classic for sure. Oct 22, 2014
dustinryan85
Bishop, CA
  5.9
dustinryan85   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Great route. beautiful day, no clouds, no wind. Pitch 2 was my first trad lead! and it went smoothly. Looking forward to climbing on the wall some more. Apr 9, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Could probably get by without a #4. If you drag it up there you'll find a home for it though.

You can rap down with a single 70m. A 60m would not work. We rapped down the 4th pitch, then switched to the anchors on PBR Streetgang. Rapped straight down that route to the ground. Several of the raps are rope stretchers, it would be very easy to go off the end of your rope if you aren't careful.

This route is just fantastic the whole way up. Mar 9, 2014
Mikekd
Mammoth lakes, CA
 
Mikekd   Mammoth lakes, CA
 
Really great route!

DESCENT: As noted already above, on the first rap if you go straight down to the previous anchors your rope will get caught. There are anchors to the right, perhaps it would have been best to go over there.

#4 was not needed. I found a bomber blue Metolius TCU (#1) placement in a run out section. Bring the small stuff, doubles to BD #.75 and single 1,2,3. Nov 4, 2013
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
As fun as Three Hour Arete, but much easier.
P1 - long, and soooooo much fun. Seam on top actually protects pretty well with small pro, even if it doesn't look like it at first. A big cam will protect the transition from diagonal crack to seam better if you're so inclined.
P2 - the 'choss' pitch. Some loose/hollow flakes, but really fun and strangely aesthetic. The two 'roofs' are cake and I thought this pitch was easier than the first. Definitely not 5.8 in comparison to Digi or High Life. Watch rope drag (easily avoided).
P3 - the money pitch, solid 5.9, clean and fun

A couple of general notes:
-The intermediate belay on P2 is a bit superfluous and unsightly (unless you're climbing on a 50m). Three bolts (2xbelay, 1xlead) clustered really close together.
-The flake on P3 ate our rope (and we actually were aware of the problem and tried to avoid it). Not a big deal since it's fairly easy to retrieve, but something to think about. Sep 3, 2013
Anne Stanley
bishop
  5.9
Anne Stanley   bishop
  5.9
I did this route with Deb Leyh. We thought it was a fun moderate route. We used the suggested rack and it had everything we needed. I thought gear placements were easy to find and solid. The route offers great crack, friction and small roofs and the 5.9 friction section is well protected. A fun must do route. Cheers Rick and Austin May 22, 2013
We climbed The Big Deal last weekend and had A Great Time. I would definitely recommend it as a moderate outing, or to combine with other PSOM multi-pitch for a pretty big day. A few things we thought -

- we did not think a #4 was at all necessary - there were always other options for gear. Small nuts came in very handy on P1, we had doubles and placed almost all of the small size.

- definitely link the middle pitches - bring a few extra slings if you need to make sure.

- the crux of the last pitch felt like fairly easy 5.9 friction. We were there on a cool, cloudy day, and in the hot sun it would feel a few grades harder. Like other routes on the PSOM, it might get more difficult if some of the small edges break off.

- on the first rappel, our rope got hopelessly stuck behind the top of the flake you climb up to start the last pitch. It was easy to lead up and free it, but did take a few minutes to tie into the other end, etc. The flake is well positioned to suck up a rope, but a hard pull to the right when the rope is coming through might avoid it. May 11, 2013
Amy W.
bishop,ca
 
Amy W.   bishop,ca
 
Great Route! Fun crack climbing and long. Worth doing again! I'd probable bring more hand size pieces and less tiny cams next time (see Todd's comment).

Climbed it with Todd Townsend and I lead The High Life and pitch 2 of The Big Deal. I would recommend using a long runner on the bolt after the mid anchor for less rope drag. Usually intimidated by roofs, but these 2 were not that scary thanks to face holds. May 5, 2013
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Some hollow blocks on the 2nd pitch that may come off at some point. Never the less, this thing is an instant classic. Nice addition by the Ziegler/Archer team. May 5, 2013
Rick, glad to see you and Austin are still getting after it over there. The route looks good. I need a tour when the pass opens. May 2, 2013
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Great route, destined to become a new classic of Pine Creek! Solid 5.9 friction on the last pitch.

One small correction to the route description. At the end of pitch 2 the bolted anchor is on the left, not on the right.

We took the suggested rack and felt like we could have used more hand sized pieces and fewer tiny cams. Next time, I'd probably bring a set of nuts, single #00 and #0 metolius, doubles from #1 metolius to #2 camalot, and a single #3 and #4.

All in all, good gear and clean rock. Go climb it! May 1, 2013