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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Go Left Old Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss 5.8+ T PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slip and Slide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 37.388, -118.674 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 43,460 total · 377/month
Shared By: old5ten on Mar 31, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

"Palisade School of Mountaineering Slab" - PSOM

This is a prominent, large slab of white granite broken by countless cracks, seams, and ledges, with both blank and featured faces to test your friction skills. There are currently over thirty routes at PSOM.

The angle of the PSOM slab is pretty mellow for the most part, but vertical and overhanging sections are encountered on some of the routes. Friction climbing is the name of the game, although there are cracks on some of the popular routes.

Easy access and a wide range of grades make this a favorite spot for slab climbers of all abilities. The routes range from short, easily topropable climbs to 700+ foot multipitch half-day adventures.

Most routes require a single 70m rope, some routes require two ropes for rappel. Most anchors are bolted with mussy hooks or rings. See specific route descriptions for detailed route information.

It is easy to get lost/off-route at PSOM. Some lines intersect or overlap, others aren't well described, and every once in a while there are multiple options to do a particular pitch. Use beta photos/topos for a better overview and distinct landmarks.

PSOM is mostly friction climbing on granite, but it is quite different from trade routes in Tuolumne or even Joshua Tree. Even with extensive cleaning there are little friable edges and flakes. It is best to avoid those when possible.

The best times to climb here are Fall and Spring. Winter can be excellent on a warm day in a drought year. Summer is usually hot, but climbing is quite viable in early mornings and in the shade of late afternoons and evenings.

Have fun climbing at PSOM, it's a magical place!

Getting There

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31 Total Climbs

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Location: PSOM Slab Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at PSOM Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 83
Racing Lizards
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
PSOM Pinnacle
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Digi
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Lizard Gizzards
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 56
The High Life
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 100
The Big Deal
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Go Left Old Man
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
The Raw Deal
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 40
PBR Street Gang
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Pretty New Anchor
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
Slip and Slide
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 94
John Fischer Memorial Route
Trad, Sport 7 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Silver Streak
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 4
Slab-O-Rama
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Too Many Rules
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Racing Lizards
 83
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
PSOM Pinnacle
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Digi
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lizard Gizzards
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The High Life
 56
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Big Deal
 100
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Go Left Old Man
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Raw Deal
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
PBR Street Gang
 40
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Pretty New Anchor
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Slip and Slide
 37
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
John Fischer Memorial Route
 94
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 7 pitches
Silver Streak
 7
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Slab-O-Rama
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Sport
Too Many Rules
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in PSOM Slab »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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max huecksteadt
Bozeman
max huecksteadt   Bozeman
Checked out the PSOM slab for my first time earlier in November, we found two short(5ish bolts), bolted slab routes maybe 40-50' up from the toe of the buttress, anyone know what these are?
I led the left, looked like it would be easy but was actually pretty invigorating! It was my first friction slab so I'm curious what the grade is...maybe 5.9?

Nov 30, 2013
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
i think the two slab routes at the toe of PSOM were put up by rick p.

no names yet, but they are both high quality (fun, clean) slab routes.

the left one has 5 bolts and is imho around 10b. the right one has 4 bolts and goes around 9+/10a, or significantly easier if you use the right hand edge. Dec 23, 2013
max huecksteadt
Bozeman
max huecksteadt   Bozeman
They definitely are great routes! I didn't mean to sandbag by suggesting 5.9 for the left, just wasn't sure if I suck at slabs or not. Still some crumbly feet, but fun nonetheless. Dec 26, 2013
Ya, did it the other day, fun route, to bad it isn't a little longer.

Any one know what the longer, steeper, thin slab route is 50' right??? May 3, 2014
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
I believe that's a new route that Darrell Hensel put up recently. I think he was calling it 5.11c? Anyway, 11c for a slabmaster like Darrell is like 5.impossible for the rest of us mortals. May 3, 2014

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