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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Go Left Old Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss 5.8+ T PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slip and Slide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 320 ft, 3 pitches
FA: E. + L. Stefke, Doug Biber, Em Holland
Page Views: 112 total · 9/month
Shared By: old5ten on Sep 18, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The name says it all: you have to be a Master Of Choss to be skilled, sane, and willing enough to climb this route. Fledgeling 5.8/9 leaders would be better off not climbing here. The one redeeming quality of this route is that it allows relatively easy access into the upper reaches of PSOM.

P1(5.8+/ PG-13) - From the top anchor of Silver Streak angle right and up across a slab on crumbling flakes and edges to a pod/flake (#3 Camalot is not necessary, but helpful here). Climb up the flake, then up the short crack over a small bush. A fall anywhere between the Silver Streak anchor and this small bush would not be good! Pass a couple more (lg.) bushes on easier ground, then angle up and left via grungy chimneys. Exit left via a lieback flake and traverse to the bolted anchor. Watch rope drag on this pitch!

Note: (a single 70m rope rap from here will leave you a foot or two shy of the Silver Streak anchor below!)

P2 (5.7 PG-13) - From the bolted anchor follow the gully up for about 8-10' then traverse back left on a nice hand rail to a crack. Go up and surmount a tough little bush to gain the upper slab. On the right side of the slab follow discontinuous cracks and seams to the 'top' - a couple of large blocks. Belay from here, gear anchor, small cams/nuts. Look slightly up, right, and across to find the top of Tumbleweed Tales (about 20' above the closest prominent roof).

P3 (5.6 PG-13) - Traverse SW along the left or right side of the blocks (watching rope drag) to a short vertical section (choss!), go up a few feet then right over a bush to a dike/horizontal scoops and the top anchor for Tumbleweed Tales. It is possible to rap Tumbleweed Tales/JFMB on a single 70m rope. Always knot the ends, some raps are tight!

Location

This route starts at the top anchor for Silver Streak. It is best to rappel from the anchor on top of Tumbleweed Tales.

Protection

Doubles of sm/med cams to .75 Camalot, singles #1,2,3 Camalot (you can get away with a lot less if you feel comfortable climbing movable holds on runout terrain); bolted anchor for P1 and 3, gear anchor for P2.

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