Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: [Unknown]
Page Views: 381 total · 14/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Jul 8, 2019
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

In the Pine Creek Climbing Guide they indicate this route goes anywhere from 5.6 to 5.9, depending on the line.  I managed to pick a line that kept the bottom 2/3 of the climb in the 5.6 range, although a bit run-out.

When reaching the ledge there's a stack of sizable rocks that are loose.  I climbed right of them on unprotected jugs to attain the ledge.  Once on the ledge the left line appeared run-out (ledge fall potential), although possibly 5.6 to 5.7 in difficulty.  Beware of loose rock on this left line.

The corner to the right, although short (maybe 20 feet), had a couple stout layback moves.  This is likely the line the guide describes as 5.9, although it didn't feel that difficult.  It helps getting your first piece high in this corner to avoid having the rope pull across the previously noted loose blocks at the lip of the ledge.

The stacked blocks above the corner are not confidence inspiring if you tap on them.  You don't have much choice in using them if you want to reach the anchors.

Rappel is straight down from the anchors (following gravity).  We used a 70m, and there wasn't a lot of rope left so I assume a 60m wouldn't quite reach.

If we set aside the occasional loose rock and run-out, the climbing is fun.  A good trundling session would easily yield this a few stars for quality.

Location

At the point where the trail meets the nose of the buttress, left of the first bolted climbs on the slab and left of the vegetated small crack ("Moderate Crack", 5.5).

Protection

Doubles through 3"

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