The Toe
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 37.38788, -118.6742 |
| FA: | [Unknown] |
| Page Views: | 881 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Heckeler on Jul 8, 2019 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Description
In the Pine Creek Climbing Guide they indicate this route goes anywhere from 5.6 to 5.9, depending on the line. I managed to pick a line that kept the bottom 2/3 of the climb in the 5.6 range, although a bit run-out.
When reaching the ledge there's a stack of sizable rocks that are loose. I climbed right of them on unprotected jugs to attain the ledge. Once on the ledge the left line appeared run-out (ledge fall potential), although possibly 5.6 to 5.7 in difficulty. Beware of loose rock on this left line.
The corner to the right, although short (maybe 20 feet), had a couple stout layback moves. This is likely the line the guide describes as 5.9, although it didn't feel that difficult. It helps getting your first piece high in this corner to avoid having the rope pull across the previously noted loose blocks at the lip of the ledge.
The stacked blocks above the corner are not confidence inspiring if you tap on them. You don't have much choice in using them if you want to reach the anchors.
Rappel is straight down from the anchors (following gravity). We used a 70m, and there wasn't a lot of rope left so I assume a 60m wouldn't quite reach.
If we set aside the occasional loose rock and run-out, the climbing is fun. A good trundling session would easily yield this a few stars for quality.



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