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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown A S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tai DeVore, Todd Townsend 2010 G.U.
Page Views: 4,457 total, 56/month
Shared By: Jason Chinchen on May 28, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb 6 pitches of really good granite.
P1- climb the water worn groove on the far right side of PSOM Slab to a ledge. *OR* Climb the better looking pitch to the left (The High Life) up cracks and an undercling section to three bolts and anchors. (5.9)
P2- Move right and climb the seam to anchors. *OR*
P3- Continue in the seam to the next anchors under the roof system.
P4- Climb through the roof (crux)with hand jams and then clip a bolt and go left under the roof and then up to anchors.
P5- Climb the flaring chimney/corner. Good rock and adequate protection.The anchors are out on the face to the left *OR*
P6- Skip this anchor and go straight to a ledge and then up and left to the last anchors.

6 raps with one 70 M rope. Watch the ends as a few are rope stretchers.

Location

Go uphill all the way along the PSOM Slab to the 4th class gully and start up the route.

Protection

Standard trad rack, double med sized cams and a set of nuts.
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9+
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.9+
Sounds like a lot of people are still getting stuffed at the crux. Don't worry, if the move feels unreasonable, the whole thing goes at a very civilized 5.8 C1. Oct 30, 2012
I love how people tell other people that had trouble at the roof that they won't??? Jul 2, 2017
Sean Stoops
Henderson, NV
Sean Stoops   Henderson, NV
Climbed this as others have suggested by linking the last two pitches. It worked out really well. The roof is much mellower than it appears when you set out. If you're feeling iffy, there are at least three cam placements you can reach before lugging yourself over the edge. Immediately above the roof, then it's maybe 6ft of lieback up a wide crack before you can get a #2 in. If you think you'll feel sketched out here, bring a #5 or so and you can stitch it all the way up. Then leave the #5 at the next anchor and grab it on your way down. Mar 28, 2016
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The roof pitch crux seems about as hard as anything else on the route, it just looks intimidating as all get out. It definitely ranks up there as one of the hardest looking moderate things I've climbed in a while. It seemed simply like 5.9? There's a second before I turned it around from the establishing jams and realized I was on an easy lieback slab section that I thought maybe it was as hard as advertised. But no.

Delightful. Oct 26, 2015
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
 
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
 
Or you could look behind you and grab the outside corner of the aerie above you and pull up much easier. Im 5-7 and discovered this beta the second go. May 18, 2015
Dave Livingston   BISHOP
I agree with the previous posts...being tall and/or flexible will definitely help you get past the overhanging roof. As I am neither, I placed a #4 cam above the roof, clipped a sling, stood in it and past the crux with minimum fuss. Lastly, I highly recommend starting the route by doing High Life, an awesome pitch, even on its own. May 15, 2015
Muscrat

  5.9+
Muscrat    
  5.9+
Lovely climb, nice work Tai. Do the first 2 pitches in 1 long pitch (2&3 if you count high life as P1) watch rope drag, gets pumpy, the layback is fun. I agree w/previous, the layback low crack above the roof might be the crux, heady for 5.9, would not want to fall through this section. Link the final 2 pitches, not difficult, watch rope drag. I have climbed this twice, got the rope stuck twice on the rap below the roof. Better to swing over to Big Deal and rap the new(er rap line there. Nov 26, 2014
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9+ PG13
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9+ PG13
P1- not much fun to climb when it's wet
P2- nicest (clean, aesthetic) pitch on the route, a bit more like 5.7 than 5.8
P3- another fun pitch, solid 5.8 (maybe even 5.9), a couple of nice thin finger locks in a flaring groove/shallow corner to a lieback flake
P4- getting over the lip should be no problem, there are solid hands (even for those with thin hands). the real crux is the next couple of moves (insecure liebacking of the pod above the hand jams). would not want to fall over that lip. definitely the money pitch and extra spicy when it's wet. the fun continues at the bolt. fairly sustained.
P5- bit of groveling. started right, then transitioned left into the groove. stopped at the first anchor (5.7/8 move out to the left).

descent: bypass the crux/roof on the far left, then come back right underneath on the slab to the anchor on top of P3. this avoids the potential flailing across the lip, the rope running over a (sharp) edge, and the potential snag by the rope eating flake (higher up)on the pull. watch ends on all the raps, some are very tight with a single 70m. knot ends. Feb 18, 2014
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
- The crux is way harder than the rest of the route but takes excellent pro. There are several ways to skin this cat depending on your skill set and body type, but aid it if necessary. Don't bail!

- The final pitch is almost 60 meters. At 40m, you'll see a stray anchor about 15 ft. out left on the slab (P5 in Desc), but if you continue up and left after the corner ends, you will reach another anchor that is impossible to see until you are within 25 ft of it (P6 in Desc).

- Be careful rappelling down over the crux! It's easy to flip or mash your hands. Oct 15, 2013
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.9
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.9
Good route with a very fun crux.

Speaking of which, if you are short don't be discouraged. I am 5'7 and had no problem pulling the crux. A very unique move, but not harder than 5.9.

I agree with rick that the route would have people lining up to epic on it in the Valley, as well as the fact that the High Life variation is very good. Kinda like a more difficult Jellyroll Arch (Donner Summit), only different. Aug 13, 2012
fivefun  
Low angle fun. Good rock and friction. Crux move feels like 5.9 if you're 6' tall and can hold body weight on a fist jam. Great climb if you can beat the heat. Jul 22, 2012
rickziegler Ziegler  
  5.9+
Lots of good 5.7 - 5.8 climbing on this one. If this thing was in Yosemite, people would be lining up to epic on it everyday. Good rock, good gear the whole way on this one.

I thought the "High Life" start was a bit more fun start for P1. The leader can clip the High Life anchors then walk over to the anchors for PBR P1 and belay. May 10, 2012
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9+
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.9+
FYI, this route will feel harder if you are under 6 ft tall, and/or have short legs, and/or have small hands. It is fairly straight forward to step in a sling to get over the roof, but if you decide to just go for it, be prepared for 5.9+++! Apr 11, 2012