Type: Trad, 750 ft, 6 pitches
FA: E. + L. Stefke, Em Holland, Doug Biber
Page Views: 581 total · 26/month
Shared By: old5ten on Sep 18, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route features excellent slab/thin face climbing on small edges and smears in a range of difficulties. Since the easier pitches are lower and the harder pitches are higher it is possible to climb just a few pitches or the whole climb. The P6 roof appears easy, but is actually quite burly and really out of character with the rest of the climb. Most climbers will probably stick with the first five pitches, which lowers the grade significantly.

P1 (5.7 PG-13/R) - Climb the first four bolts of Controversial Insert, then head up straight in a corner/flaring groove. Continue to the bottom anchor of Silver Streak. This is a full 70m pitch, the 2nd should be tied in and ready to go. While the crux is fairly well protected (small gear in flake to left of flaring groove) the easier terrain is a bit runout. Watch rope drag! 4 bolts, gear, 70m
Note:
1.) This is NOT a good pitch for beginning leaders.
2.) The route rappel on a single 70m rope does NOT come back down this way! See rappel description below!

P2 (5.9 PG-13) - Climb the first six bolts of Silver Streak, then climb toward the 7th bolt (If your 2nd is not strong on solid 5.9 slab you may want to clip the 7th bolt on Silver Streak with a sling before heading right.  Note that this will slightly increase rope drag for the leader, but much better protect the initial moves after the 6th bolt for the 2nd).  Upon encountering a rust streak (just below 7th bolt of Silver Streak) and easier terrain continue toward the right on an improbable ramp, then slab climb up and right past three bolts to an anchor in an alcove (just left of the 3rd pitch start on JFMB). 9 bolts, 38m

P3 (5.10a/b) - Continue up the face on small edges and smears along/just right of the bolts. Pass the easy lip to the anchor. 7 bolts, 27m

P4 (5.10a) - Follow bolts up the face on small edges and smears to a hidden alcove and anchor. This pitch is very similar to P3, maybe a tad easier.  10 bolts, 33m

P5 (5.10c) - Climb toward a small roof/lieback flake (5.9) from the left side of the alcove, then continue up the face to a tightly bolted crux (10c) section and the anchor. The crux may be a bit height dependent. Most climbers will probably stop here and rappel. Note rappel instructions below! 9 bolts, 26m

P6 (5.11b or 5.10A0) - Move up over easier ground (small gear) to a bolt below the roof. Surmount the burly roof (bolt, permadraw, and optional gear to 2") and continue up past a shallow groove (.75") and another bolt to the anchor. It is possible to A0 the roof with the permadraw.  While this is easier than doing the roof clean, it still requires a couple of jams in the 5.10 range.  Tape or gloves are recommended.  3 bolts, permadraw, gear, 34m

Location

Start as for Controversial Insert (the 4-bolt, right variation start of Racing Lizards).

Descent - Rappel to the top of the second pitch with a single 70m rope. From there rappel or scramble down to the top of the 2nd pitch of John Fischer Memorial Buttress and continue rappelling from there. Always knot your rope, some of the rappels are tight. On the last rappel (1st pitch of JFMB) stay to climber's right in order to make it to the ground.

Protection

Single 70m rope (note rappel directions above!). 10 QDs/alpine runners (3-4 helpful on 1st, 2nd, and 6th pitch), small rack (3/8-3/4") of cams

Photos