All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Crags /… > PSOM Slab
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 750 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||E. + L. Stefke, Em Holland, Doug Biber|
|Page Views:||341 total · 80/month|
|Shared By:||old5ten on Sep 18, 2017|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis route features excellent slab/thin face climbing on small edges and smears in a range of difficulties. Since the easier pitches are lower and the harder pitches are higher it is possible to climb just a few pitches or the whole climb. The P6 roof appears easy, but is actually quite burly and really out of character with the rest of the climb. Most climbers will probably stick with the first five pitches, which lowers the grade significantly.
P1 (5.7 PG-13) - Climb the first four bolts of Controversial Insert, then head up straight in a corner/flaring groove. Continue to the bottom anchor of Silver Streak. This is a full 70m pitch, the 2nd should be tied in and ready to go. While the crux is fairly well protected (small gear in flake to left of flaring groove) the easier terrain is a bit runout. Watch rope drag! 4 bolts, gear, 70m
1.) This is NOT a good pitch for beginning leaders.
2.) The route rappel on a single 70m rope does NOT come back down this way! See rappel description below!
P2 (5.9 PG-13) - Climb the first six bolts of Silver Streak, then climb toward the 7th bolt. Upon encountering a rust streak and easier terrain continue toward the right on a ramp then slab climb past three bolts to an anchor in an alcove (just left of the 3rd pitch start on JFMB). 9 bolts, 38m
P3 (5.10a/b) - Continue up the face on small edges and smears. Pass the easy lip to the anchor. 7 bolts, 27m
P4 (5.10a) - Follow bolts up the face on small edges and smears to a hidden alcove and anchor. This pitch is very similar to P3, maybe a tad easier.
10 bolts, 33m
P5 (5.10c) - Climb toward a small roof/lieback flake (5.9) from the left side of the alcove, then continue up the face to a tightly bolted crux (10c) section and the anchor. The crux may be a bit height dependent. Most climbers will probably stop here and rappel. Note rappel instructions below! 9 bolts, 26m
P6 (5.11b) - Move up over easier ground (small gear) to a bolt below the roof. Surmount the roof (bolt and optional gear to 2") and continue up past a shallow groove (.75") and another bolt to the anchor. 3 bolts, gear, 34m
LocationStart as for Controversial Insert (the 4-bolt, right variation start of Racing Lizards).
Descent - Rappel to the top of the second pitch with a single 70m rope. From there rappel or scramble down to the top of the 2nd pitch of John Fischer Memorial Buttress and continue rappelling from there. Always knot your rope, some of the rappels are tight. On the last rappel (1st pitch of JFMB) stay to climber's right in order to make it to the ground.