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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Go Left Old Man S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss 5.8+ T PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slip and Slide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 6 pitches
FA: E. + L. Stefke, Em Holland, Doug Biber
Page Views: 445 total · 34/month
Shared By: old5ten on Sep 18, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route features excellent slab/thin face climbing on small edges and smears in a range of difficulties. Since the easier pitches are lower and the harder pitches are higher it is possible to climb just a few pitches or the whole climb. The P6 roof appears easy, but is actually quite burly and really out of character with the rest of the climb. Most climbers will probably stick with the first five pitches, which lowers the grade significantly.

P1 (5.7 PG-13/R) - Climb the first four bolts of Controversial Insert, then head up straight in a corner/flaring groove. Continue to the bottom anchor of Silver Streak. This is a full 70m pitch, the 2nd should be tied in and ready to go. While the crux is fairly well protected (small gear in flake to left of flaring groove) the easier terrain is a bit runout. Watch rope drag! 4 bolts, gear, 70m
Note:
1.) This is NOT a good pitch for beginning leaders.
2.) The route rappel on a single 70m rope does NOT come back down this way! See rappel description below!

P2 (5.9 PG-13) - Climb the first six bolts of Silver Streak, then climb toward the 7th bolt (If your 2nd is not strong on 5.9 terrain you may want to clip the 7th bolt on Silver Streak with a sling before heading right.  Note that this will increase rope drag for the leader, but better protect the initial moves after the 6th bolt for the 2nd).  Upon encountering a rust streak (just below 7th bolt of Silver Streak) and easier terrain continue toward the right on an improbable ramp, then slab climb up and right past three bolts to an anchor in an alcove (just left of the 3rd pitch start on JFMB). 9 bolts, 38m

P3 (5.10a/b) - Continue up the face on small edges and smears along/just right of the bolts. Pass the easy lip to the anchor. 7 bolts, 27m

P4 (5.10a) - Follow bolts up the face on small edges and smears to a hidden alcove and anchor. This pitch is very similar to P3, maybe a tad easier.  10 bolts, 33m

P5 (5.10c) - Climb toward a small roof/lieback flake (5.9) from the left side of the alcove, then continue up the face to a tightly bolted crux (10c) section and the anchor. The crux may be a bit height dependent. Most climbers will probably stop here and rappel. Note rappel instructions below! 9 bolts, 26m

P6 (5.11b or 5.10A0) - Move up over easier ground (small gear) to a bolt below the roof. Surmount the burly roof (bolt, permadraw, and optional gear to 2") and continue up past a shallow groove (.75") and another bolt to the anchor. It is possible to A0 the roof with the permadraw.  While this is easier than doing the roof clean, it still requires a couple of jams in the 5.10 range.  Tape or gloves are recommended.  3 bolts, permadraw, gear, 34m

Location

Start as for Controversial Insert (the 4-bolt, right variation start of Racing Lizards).

Descent - Rappel to the top of the second pitch with a single 70m rope. From there rappel or scramble down to the top of the 2nd pitch of John Fischer Memorial Buttress and continue rappelling from there. Always knot your rope, some of the rappels are tight. On the last rappel (1st pitch of JFMB) stay to climber's right in order to make it to the ground.

Protection

Single 70m rope (note rappel directions above!). 10 QDs/alpine runners (3-4 helpful on 1st, 2nd, and 6th pitch), small rack (3/8-3/4") of cams
Haha, does using that little bush on top count. Going to tick it anyway even if I have to call it A0, not sure if I will go back up there just to work that final move. Sep 20, 2017
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
i'd say that little bush counts, although i'm not sure how long it'll be around. i also broke off the flake that was stuck in the crack, so now there are a couple more hand jams lower down (making the entry easier). in any case, it's burly ;-) Sep 20, 2017
Kinda harder for the second IMHO, hard to keep the rope out of the way and you do not want to give them too much slack. Sep 20, 2017
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
agreed, the rope is definitely in the way. even on lead i wasn't quite happy with where it was, should have used a longer draw. actually thought of putting in another bolt about 2' further up. may still do that.

otoh, i don't think too many people are going to climb this pitch. it's burly! doing p1-5 is MUCH more enjoyable. i actually thought of climbing/listing it that way, but i started TD from above the roof... Sep 20, 2017
The last pitch is part of the route so not listing it that way would seem a little silly to me. Call it like it is and people can make their own choice about doing it or not. The route pitch write up is fine as is.

Now, regarding how the rope runs. For the person following I'm convinced that the second gets way more hosed than the leader by where the rope runs. Unfortunately, not only does the rope naturally get sucked into the crack but the bush stump acts as an additional wedge that holds it snugly enough even higher (beyond the reach of climber) that it is damn near impossible to flick the rope out of the crack. This wouldn't be true for the leader since the rope isn't at the bush yet... I was able to fight the rope enough to get a higher jam, but when I needed one last jam the stump held it so tightly that I couldn't move the rope far enough away. At that point it becomes quite a PITA because it has turned fairly burly.

I thought about this some last night and I think a higher bolt may be the best solution as well. Seems to me it would need to be at the height of the bush or slightly higher so the bush couldn't pinch the rope, and far enough to the right (since the lip bolt is also right side.) While the leader certainly doesn't need it, it would act to keep the second from getting screwed. Just my two cents worth, but I think it would make for a better route. IMO, fix it even if the feeling is that it won't "often" get done - because the last pitch IS part of the route. Sep 20, 2017
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
hey darrell,

you're right, i actually had that '2nd' problem when i was working that thing on microtrax and a fixed line. got around the wedge part by running the fixed line over the horizontal part of the bush with the little twig on the right keeping it from getting stuck. it was still a major pita because the rope was still coming down the crack and getting in the way of jams. first lead attempt was on gear, still a cluster. added the bolt and thought about a second one, just have a really hard time putting two bolts that close together. anyway, you've convinced me to go that way so i'll add another bolt there.

yes, P6 is part of the route that's why i wrote it up that way. BUT, in retrospect, i'm not sure it was worth the struggle. thanks for the feedback! Sep 20, 2017
I have a bit of an aversion about bolts close together as well. However, the second bolt here would be a "consideration" bolt for the person following. It might be possible to space so it wouldn't be excessively close to the previous one.

Gotta laugh at Jeff's comment "and you do not want to give them too much slack". Agreed, I wouldn't have been all that interested in a bunch of slack to help solve the problem. Sep 20, 2017
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
yeah, speaking of 'consideration bolt,' i actually already placed one of those - the last bolt on P2. climbed that pitch as a 2nd on an earlier FA attempt, unclipped the (then) last (8th) bolt and thought: this fall would really suck... ;-) Sep 21, 2017
Oh ya, a fall there without that bolt would not be good! Even with, I paid close attention to my feet. Sep 22, 2017
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
Looking forward to doing everything below the trouble pitches!

Thanks for putting this up! Skippy & I have been wondering about this! Oct 13, 2017
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
have a good time! p2-5 are really fun slab. p5 is harder, but it's really tightly bolted at the crux and fun overall. also has more variety. p6 is just plain burly. i think you need to be pretty strong to pull that off clean without working it! note that the ratings are not JFMB ratings ;-) Oct 13, 2017
adventure4life
Apple Valley, Ca
  5.11b
adventure4life   Apple Valley, Ca
  5.11b
I climbed this today and think the last pitch is a fantastic way to finish this route i was able to get the roof move on my 4th try w/out the bush (although the bush was replaced by some beached whale moves, a mite of groveling, and maybe a dash of bartering). I set up a toprope anchor at the top and lowered down which allowed my to unclip the draw in the crack and set the rope outside where the plant held it out of the way. My hands got pretty thrashed in there, todays lesson: 'tape for roof cracks'. Oct 19, 2017
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.11b
note: a permadraw has been added to the roof section just above the initial roof bolt. this should keep the rope running smoothly for the second and could provide an A0 way of doing the crux. Jun 11, 2018

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