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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown A S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel
Page Views: 698 total, 16/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on May 20, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Thin slab to a short section of seam/crack, then finishes on lower angle smearing. Climb crux moves past two bolts to obtain a couple of small holes. From the holes follow the right leaning seam/crack doing a few more hard moves to obtain the large shelf just right of the bush. Five more bolts trend leftwards to the anchor. Despite being lower angle the upper slab has smaller holds and presents a reasonably continuous and surprisingly difficult smearing exercise.

Although the route has cleaned up decently the name sums it up pretty well. A lot of surface scale needed to be cleaned off the upper half of the route. Hopefully this isn't going to be a case of "Same As It Never Will Be" as well. Nonetheless, there is decent climbing throughout the route and even if it does continue to change it shouldn't present a problem due to the slabby nature of the climbing.

If it wasn't for the crispy hold aspect of it the route could probably be given another star - IMO.

Location

Immediately left of Wanted Man. Single 70m rope to get off. 60m would probably also work by swinging left at the bottom, if needed.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 ring hangers at anchor (no mussies yet)

Photos

I can't suggest a rating to a route I was unable to do. It may very well be 11c but I was unable to figure it out, next time. You are the slab masters. 1 of the best right here on MP. Jul 14, 2014
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
it also looks way cooler than 2 stars! when's the left variation going up? May 28, 2014
Suggest/adjust the rating, that's what concensus is about. Sometimes I'm guessing at ratings so they may need to change one way or the other. I'd like to know what other people think, because I wasn't sure what to give it. May 20, 2014
I think it's harder May 20, 2014