Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel
Page Views: 846 total · 13/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on May 20, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thin slab to a short section of seam/crack, then finishes on lower angle smearing. Climb crux moves past two bolts to obtain a couple of small holes. From the holes follow the right leaning seam/crack doing a few more hard moves to obtain the large shelf just right of the bush. Five more bolts trend leftwards to the anchor. Despite being lower angle the upper slab has smaller holds and presents a reasonably continuous and surprisingly difficult smearing exercise.

Although the route has cleaned up decently the name sums it up pretty well. A lot of surface scale needed to be cleaned off the upper half of the route. Hopefully this isn't going to be a case of "Same As It Never Will Be" as well. Nonetheless, there is decent climbing throughout the route and even if it does continue to change it shouldn't present a problem due to the slabby nature of the climbing.

If it wasn't for the crispy hold aspect of it the route could probably be given another star - IMO.

Location

Immediately left of Wanted Man. Single 70m rope to get off. 60m would probably also work by swinging left at the bottom, if needed.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 ring hangers at anchor (no mussies yet)

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