Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Adam Winters, Jeremy Freeman - OS/GU - Sept 2008
Page Views: 242 total · 2/month
Shared By: AWinters on Mar 31, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

A fun route with one tricky roof sequence.

Pitch 1: Climb an easy left-facing obtuse corner to the tricky roof on the right. A finger crack under the roof (crux) leads to a sidepull jug around the lip (watch the rope on the sharp edge of the roof for your follower). Easier ground leads to a nice thin finger crack on the slab. Climb the crack up to the bolt anchor. (5.10b)

Pitch 2: Step right under the tree, then head up the slab slightly left to the finger crack/seam. Follow the crack up, then right to the next crack, and up to the big ledge. Build an anchor. (5.7)

Descent: Scramble up 4th class thru the micro gully, then walk off right, descending either of the two 4th class gullies.

Location

The obvious corner and roof just left of the only tree at the base of the slab. About 100 feet up and to the right of the very left edge of the slab.

Protection

Standard rack to 3"

A #.5 Camalot works just after the roof to keep the rope off that edge for the follower (we had a core-shot on the FA when a follower fell under the roof).

Photos

Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.10b
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.10b
There is now a mussy hook station at the end of the first pitch finger crack. A 70m rope just works for top-roping the first pitch. A 60 would probably work if you lowered off to climber's right.
OK route, kind of a 2 move wonder with a fun easy crack finish. Apr 23, 2012
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
This is a tricky one to grade. I felt like the crux was harder than any single move on the JFMR, but overall it's much less sustained. Kind of a two-move-wonder, but they're a hard two moves. To me, the crux feels like a V1 boulder problem, which should make it about 10c.

A 70m rope gets you to the ground, I don't think a 60m would make it. Mar 12, 2013
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a/b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a/b
really fun crux, i'd give that at least 3 stars and well worthwhile - the section above is not all that great (probably because it doesn't see that much traffic and is a bit vegetated). i found that doing a hand jam for the crux right move was much easier than trying to work something with undercling fingers. also thought there are decent smears for the feet. Apr 24, 2016
Tom V
Aspen, CO
  5.10c/d
Tom V   Aspen, CO
  5.10c/d
Pretty great route, not sure why it doesn't get more traffic. I gave it a 10c/d rating, 98% is super 5.8/9 but you should be a comfortable 5.11 leader to pull of the roof moves, a positive ape index will help. Nov 4, 2018