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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown A S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Adam Winters, Jeremy Freeman - OS/GU - Sept 2008
Page Views: 169 total, 2/month
Shared By: AWinters on Mar 31, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

A fun route with one tricky roof sequence.

Pitch 1: Climb an easy left-facing obtuse corner to the tricky roof on the right. A finger crack under the roof (crux) leads to a sidepull jug around the lip (watch the rope on the sharp edge of the roof for your follower). Easier ground leads to a nice thin finger crack on the slab. Climb the crack up to the bolt anchor. (5.10b)

Pitch 2: Step right under the tree, then head up the slab slightly left to the finger crack/seam. Follow the crack up, then right to the next crack, and up to the big ledge. Build an anchor. (5.7)

Descent: Scramble up 4th class thru the micro gully, then walk off right, descending either of the two 4th class gullies.

Location

The obvious corner and roof just left of the only tree at the base of the slab. About 100 feet up and to the right of the very left edge of the slab.

Protection

Standard rack to 3"

A #.5 Camalot works just after the roof to keep the rope off that edge for the follower (we had a core-shot on the FA when a follower fell under the roof).

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a/b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a/b
really fun crux, i'd give that at least 3 stars and well worthwhile - the section above is not all that great (probably because it doesn't see that much traffic and is a bit vegetated). i found that doing a hand jam for the crux right move was much easier than trying to work something with undercling fingers. also thought there are decent smears for the feet. Apr 24, 2016
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
This is a tricky one to grade. I felt like the crux was harder than any single move on the JFMR, but overall it's much less sustained. Kind of a two-move-wonder, but they're a hard two moves. To me, the crux feels like a V1 boulder problem, which should make it about 10c.

A 70m rope gets you to the ground, I don't think a 60m would make it. Mar 12, 2013
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.10b
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.10b
There is now a mussy hook station at the end of the first pitch finger crack. A 70m rope just works for top-roping the first pitch. A 60 would probably work if you lowered off to climber's right.
OK route, kind of a 2 move wonder with a fun easy crack finish. Apr 23, 2012