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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown A S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 210 ft
FA: E.Stefke
Page Views: 1,083 total, 27/month
Shared By: old5ten on Sep 2, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the pod, then go up and slightly left to a thin, sloping stance. Pass the prominent orange spot, continue up a shallow groove toward the roof. Pass the roof on the right side (big holds), then angle up and left through the crux section (sustained steep slab/thin face for the next four bolts). Surmount the roof in the middle (5.7+), then head slightly left and up to a good ledge and mussy anchor.

This is a full 200'+ pitch! 12 bolts, optional (recommended) thin gear (green/gray aliens) for 2nd horizontal/shallow crack on upper slab. A bit longer and much more sustained than Silver Streak. Fairly tightly bolted at the crux sections, but a bit R on easier terrain.

70m rope and descend via rappel to anchor for 'Too Many Rules.'

Location

Look for a gold streak/shallow pod and orange patch, roughly 50' uphill from the start of JFMB, just right of 'Too Many Rules' (which has black bolts).

Protection

12 draws, optional (recommended) cams (green/gray alien size); mussy anchors; single 70m rope; 2 rappels (via 'Too Many Rules')
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
 
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
 
yeah, one of my favorite routes in terms of what i've put up. agreed, that last bolt is a couple inches high for a super easy clip (unless you're tai), but you should have a solid cam just below your feet and the climbing there is low key (relative to the moves lower down). Apr 24, 2016
Fun route. Last bolt was a bit high. Why smear 2" above a great foothold to clip? Apr 16, 2016