Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Rick Poedtke., solo, Sept. 2012
Page Views: 1,246 total · 21/month
Shared By: old5ten on Dec 23, 2013 with updates from Old Skool Slabhead
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Awesome slab route. Clean, fun, low-angle friction. The route runs a bit more right than indicated in the photo.

Location

Passing the toe of PSOM on the approach one encounters a small, short slab with two bolted routes. This is the left hand route.

Protection

5 bolts, mussy hooks.

Photos

Muscrat

  5.10b
Muscrat    
  5.10b
I think this was originally 10.a, i agree w/10b, very much a valley 10.b slab. Short, good way to get slab down. Well protected for low angle, good way to finish the day when there is light left after doing things above here. Nov 26, 2014
max huecksteadt
Portland, OR
max huecksteadt   Portland, OR
I thought this would be a great easy warmup, no harder than 5.7 due to the angle. I was in for a surprise! Awesome, consistent slabbing. Don't let the angle fool you! Mar 17, 2015
Maidy  
I'll second the comments above. A fun, short, slab climb that's worth a go. Solid 10b friction on grippy granite. There's an easy crack to the left you can climb to set up a TR anchor as well. Mar 26, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b
it looks easy and straightforward, but that is a bit deceiving... Aug 25, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.9
I had a different experience then all the above except I agree with the Maid about the grippy granite. Aug 26, 2015
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Climbed JFMR yesterday and this felt as hard as the crux on that route. (And harder than the slab pitches on that route that people have been calling 10b.) This a great, sustained friction climb, that's much harder and better than it looks, and is excellent practice for anyone looking to work on their slab technique. Apr 13, 2016
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.9
Both routes are quite a bit easier than Needle Spoon in the Meadows. Don't even think about the Dike Route. Sep 20, 2017
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b
i think comparing either of those routes to needle spoon is a bit like apples and oranges. if i remember correctly, at the crux, needle and spoon was steeper and had more features (greasy edges). slip and slide/go left old man are both lower angle, but more pure friction oriented. i think todd's comments are right on, just that the ratings on JFMB are really off in terms of reflecting anything close to tuolumne/valley ratings. i would compare the angle on slip and slide/go left old man to something like marginal and i would say that slip and slide is harder than marginal (on a technical level, definitely not in terms of protection/seriousness). Sep 20, 2017
Old Skool Slabhead
  5.9+ PG13
Old Skool Slabhead  
  5.9+ PG13
I FA'd this route before I did the one to the right. Both Solo. Named it "Slip and Slide". Sept of 2012. I rated it 5.9+. Love how it is now 10b. Enjoy! Rick Poedtke Jan 15, 2018
BAd
BAd  
This has gotten WAY harder. 10b used to be fair, but little flakes coming off and polishing have upped this. Old Skool below is just a troll. I've done most of the standard 9's on the Apron in Yos, done stacks of 9 slabs in Josh and elsewhere. This thing is stout! If you're not up for leading it, the easy cracks to the left grant quick access to the anchors. Excellent for slab training. Apr 26, 2018
Randy Dewees
  5.10b/c
Randy Dewees  
  5.10b/c
Well, this may have been 9+ at the FA, but it's been skinned off pretty well now. It's pretty hard the whole way but I think the crux is 3rd to 4th bolt - RIGHT of the bolt line, MUCH harder on the prettier rock left of the bolts. It's going to get harder yet. So, I'm going to up the ante to 10b/c. Aug 24, 2018